ISSUE 2 20 23 ENGL ISH IN THIS ISSUE Fibers Fairbrics/DITF DNFI Lenzing List Technology PHP Fibers Renewcell Spinnova Toray USDA Spinning Knitting Textile Finishing Reducing the footprint with bio-based dyes D 5 8 6 2 E FIBERS, SPINNING, WEAVING, KNITTING, TEXTILE FINISHING VISIT US AT: TEXTILETECHNOLOGY.NET
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Charles Beauduin Chairman ITMA Services Transforming the world of textiles with innovation Digitalization and sustainability are hand-in-hand driving the development of new technologies and leading to an environment of continuous improvement for textile machinery companies, and consequently for the textile industry. Such novel technologies will feature prominently at the ITMA exhibition to be held in Milan/Italy from June 8-14, 2023. Big data: The benefits of digitalization in textile production now span developments from in-plant progress in areas such as advanced fault detection and routine maintenance to the control of entire smart factories and beyond. Big data ‘off-the-shelf’ systems such as those behind technologies like facial recognition and Google Maps are being specifically tailored to machine learning solutions in order to elevate the fault detection process and the accuracy of naming and grading subtle defects in textiles – in real time within production environments. A latest development is in the ability to accurately detect even the most subtle of defects in patterned fabrics. The challenge here has been that fabrics are not rigid and can be creased or stretched and are also subject to local distortion, which leads to thousands of false positives in detection. Sophisticated software for pattern inspection, however, is now ensuring a clean image and allowing the detection of the faults in patterned fabrics running at speeds of up to 100 m/min. In sync: Meanwhile, smart factory production machines are now increasingly talking to each other and making a lot of new features possible, such as real-time monitoring and automatically triggering corrections based on historic data that can instantaneously adapt in real time. More than anything, digitalization is about increasing the optimal flow of an entire plant, and increasingly, networks of plants operating in sync around the world. Additive printing is another useful technology being used by machine builders to rapidly create part prototypes, increasingly enabling agile collaborations between different production units; it also allows flexible and personalized designs previously not possible. Added to this is the use of embedded informatics for the different production units and the integration of collaborative robots being integrated into manufacturing networks. Sensors embedded on machines for data acquisition further enhance machine and product monitoring and communication within textile manufacturing plants, and predictive maintenance can optimize schedules and reduce costs, with augmented reality supporting operators during maintenance. Cloud computing and big data analytics enable the collection and processing of a considerable amount of information coming from the production machines. Improved planning and monitoring, process and product traceability and preventive and predictive maintenance now result from this available data. The development of entirely new materials in the field of printed electronics is also emerging via digital printing – a field that is gaining traction rapidly for its ability to produce low-cost long runs with a far lower ecological footprint compared to traditional electronics production. The field of printed biosensors, in particular, has gained a lot of attention in recent years. Go for green: Under pressure to adopt earth-friendly practices, the textile world has begun to reinvent itself in innovative ways. There is fast-paced innovation for fiber-to-fiber recycling to turn textile waste into new fibers that are then used to create new clothes or other textile products. The growing emphasis on circular supply chains and new technologies has put the spotlight on chemical recycling routes and full materials recovery, along with digitalized separation and sorting. Big advances are being made in the processes for dyeing, finishing and coating – traditionally the most resource-intensive sectors of textile production in terms of water, energy, dyes and chemicals. A number of ITMA 2023 exhibitors will be displaying commercial non-contact spray application technologies for these processes that offer tremendous savings. Textile manufacturers apply only the required amount of dye or chemical finish to the fabric surfaces, thanks to the precision made possible by the latest sensor- based control systems. Completely water-free dyeing units are also now becoming commercially available, with reclaimed CO2 replacing water as the dyeing medium in some closed-loop processes. When heated and pressurized, CO2 becomes super- critical – a phase between a liquid and a gas. In this state, dyes can dissolve easily and deeply into fibers, creating vibrant colors. This technology has already been adopted by suppliers to major brands such as adidas, IKEA and Nike. At the ITMA 2023, a host of recycling solutions will be showcased, from textile recycling equipment to wastewater treatment equipment, heat recovery systems, waste management and pollution prevention equipment, and more. Energy costs: In 2022 and going into 2023, escalating energy costs have increasingly put pressure on the textile industry and its supply chain, but even this additional difficulty is sparking innovation. At the ITMA 2023, it will become apparent that, difficult as they have proved, the hike in energy prices has further driven the development of innovative new technologies, in close consultation with customers. When Covid-19 made travelling impossible, for example, many machine builders adopted new remote assistance tools, developed their own in-house software and even established committed design departments. This experience really enhanced the many services textile machinery builders can now provide, as will be very evident at ITMA 2023. As the world’s largest international textile and garment technology exhibition, the ITMA 2023 will be a hub of innovation where visitors can source the latest technologies and solutions from over 1,600 exhibitors that will help transform their business. Participants should also find time to explore the new Start-Up Valley to spark their transformative journey towards a digital and sustainable future. 3 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 LEADER
LEADER 3 Transforming the world of textiles with innovation C. Beauduin NEWS 6 – 18 DETAI LS SEE PAGE 6 FIBERS & YARNS 19 Polyester fibers bind CO2 Fairbrics / DITF 20 Process to produce bio-based adipic acid Toray Industries 22 Lyocell 2.0 M. Steiner SPINNING 26 Innovative control strategies lead to energy savings in the operation of ventilation systems airinotec KNITTING 28 Fault analysis on each spindle in ring spinning E.Y. Bilisim 30 Tailor-made products using 3D printing Karl Mayer Group TEXTILE FINISHING 32 Improving the color approval process K. Butts 34 Wood-based technology removes 80% of dye pollutants Chalmers University 35 Why digital textile printing makes the textile industry more sustainable I. Bargende et al. CONTENTS I S SUE 2 | 2023 | VOLUME 2 9 Page 30 Page 12 4 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 CONTENTS
WWW.TEXTILETECHNOLOGY.NET 38 Acid coating – textile finishing for the prevention of microbial growth O. Etemad-Parishanzadeh, J.S. Gutmann, T. Textor et al. 40 Predicting coating properties from simple extraction methods O. Deußen, L. Zibula MANAGEMENT 18 Stefan König, Hans Bühler 18 Francis Murphy 25 Peter Bolten, Christian Prause 25 Kim Scholze, Rüdiger Fox 29 Daniel Rüfenacht 29 Seshadri Ramkumar 31 Mariano Amezcua, Tony Hooimeijer 31 Ramesh Kesh, Eric Yung INTERVIEW 42 Reducing the footprint with bio-based dyes G. Boissonnat-Wu INFOS 41 Company index 41 Imprint Page 40 Page 32 5 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 CONTENTS
NEWS COMPANY: Oerlikon More orders and sales again in 2022 COMPANIES: Evonik /AMSilk Partnership to manufacture sustainable silk proteins COMPANY: Trützschler 75th anniversary in Mönchengladbach COMPANIES: Archroma /Huntsman Textile Effects Acquisition forms Archroma Textile Effects COMPANY: Pfaff Industrial Purchase of land in Bensheim by Dürkopp Adler COMPANY: Dienes 110th anniversary and 4 generations of family history Page 6– 18 ASSOCIATION: DNFI Natural fiber production 2022 ASSOCIATION: USDA US cotton import volumes down in 2022 COMPANY: Lenzing Sales increase due to high fiber prices COMPANY: Renewcell Renewcell 1 to be operational in 2 weeks after fire COMPANY: Spinnova Woodspin plant completed in 2022 COMPANIES: Lanxess/Advent Competition authorities clear engineering materials JV COMPANY: IVL Name changes in BUMobility COMPANY: Milliken Textile business eliminates PFAS from portfolio COMPANY: Fact.MR Textile chemicals market to reach $40.6 billion by 2032 ASSOCIATION: ECHA Input on proposed PFAS restriction sought COMPANY: Erca Circular chemical solutions for the textile industry EVENT: Heimtextil 2024 With separate segment Carpets & Rugs INSTITUTE: Hohenstein 3D body data for babies and toddlers COMPANY: Ventile Wood-based barrier technology OVERV I EW ASSOCIATION: DNFI FOCUS: Business Based on latest figures from the Discover Natural Fibres Initiative (DNFI), world natural fiber production in 2022 is estimated at 31.6 million tons, down approx. 1.3 million tons from 2021, and 500,000 tons lower than the estimate at the end of January. Based on high prices received in 2021, production in 2022 had been forecast to rise to approx. 35 million tons. However, poor weather, especially drought in Texas/USA, Bangladesh and India, floods in Pakistan, and an unexpectedly large decline in cotton yields in India, led to declines in cotton and jute production. Natural fiber production in total has not increased in the last 2 decades because yields have stagnated. Data on world cotton production in 2022 are still being gathered. World cotton production in 2022/23 is estimated at 23.9 million tons, down about 1.3 million tons from 2021/22. World production of wool in 2022 is estimated at 1.1 million tons, up 5 % from 2021. Demand for wool in the USA is rising, with imports of wool apparel approx. one quarter greater by value during Natural fiber production 2022 World natural fiber production in 2022 is estimated at 31.6 million tons, down approx. 1.3 million tons from 2021 September-November 2022 compared with the same months in 2019. China is still the largest importer of wool fiber in the world. The Government of Bangladesh is distributing free jute planting seeds to 400,000 farmers to encourage increased production in 2023. The seeds will be sufficient for about 54,000 hectares, out of national jute area of around 7.5 million hectares. In a major boost to jute production and use, the Government of India is mandating the use of jute as the packing material for 100 % of grain sacks and 20 % of sugar sacks effective this year. Exports of sisal climbed to more than 100,000 tons during 2021 and 2022, up from less than 90,000 tons prior to Covid. The growth has come from increased production and exports from Kenya and Tanzania. Applications in the construction industry are the most important uses of sisal exports. The value of world natural fiber production at the farm level is estimated by the DNFI at $80 billion in 2022, approx. the same as in 2021, and up from an average of around $50 billion prior to Covid. Higher prices/kg, especially for cotton, have offset reduced production. 6 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
ASSOCIATION: USDA FOCUS: Business The USA is the largest importer of cotton products and nearly all US consumer retail purchases of these goods are im- ported. Cotton product imports in 2022 were down after reaching the highest level in a decade (measured in m² equivalent). According to data from the International Trade Administration’s Office of Textile and Apparels (OTEXA), Washington, DC/USA, 2022 cotton products were, however, a record US$57.0 billion, nearly $8.0 billion higher than the previous year. Despite lower import volumes, higher value was attributed to greater unit values and US consumers’ sustained demand for goods. Robust levels of consumer discretionary income, low unemployment, and higher wage growth have all supported strong purchases despite consumer inflation. China remained the largest cotton product supplier for the 20th consecutive year. This was despite Section 301 tariffs implemented in 2019 amid the US-China trade dispute and the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) that went into effect on June 21, 2022. The UFLPA establishes that the importation of any goods, etc., wholly or in part in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of PR China are barred from entry into the USA. The Xinjiang autonomous region produces roughly 90% of China’s cotton, making much of Chinese cotton product exports potentially susceptible to the law. Cotton’s market share of total apparel imports (including all fibers) fell from the previous year to roughly 40%. Man-made fibers (MMF) including polyester (PET), polyamide (PA), spandex (elastane), and acrylic tied its record for market share among all US apparel imports at nearly 60%. China is the largest manufacturer of man-made synthetic yarns (which are ultimately used to manufacture MMF apparel), accounting for roughly 60% of world production. For the past decade, competitively priced MMF products have been a major factor slowing global growth in cotton consumption. 2022/23 OUTLOOK Global production is up from the previous month to 115.1 million bales and attributed to higher production in China, Australia, and Uzbekistan more than offsetting India’s lower crop. Consumption is forecast down more than 500,000 bales from the previous month due to lower consumption in Pakistan, Turkey, Bangladesh, and Indonesia due to an array of country-specific factors. Both Pakistan and Bangladesh are experiencing issues opening and executing letters of credit along with declining profit margins amidst higher electricity costs. Turkey’s earthquake adversely affected mills in the area and Indonesia imports are forecast at the lowest level since 1990. The full report is available from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), Washington, DC/USA. US cotton import volumes down in 2022 7 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
COMPANY: Lenzing FOCUS: Business COMPANY: Renewcell FOCUS: Business In the 2022 financial year, the Lenzing Group, like most of the manufacturing industry in Europe, was increasingly affected by the extreme developments on the global energy and raw material markets. In the 3rd and 4th quarters (Q3 &Q4), the market environment deteriorated significantly, while worsening consumer sentiment placed an additional burden on the business growth of cellulose fiber manufacturer Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria. In 2022, sales increased by 16.9 % to reach €2.57 billion, primarily as a result of higher fiber prices. The quantity of fiber sold decreased, while the quantity of pulp sold rose. In addition to lower demand, the earnings trend particularly reflects the increase in energy and raw material costs. Earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) decreased by 33.3 % to €241.9 million in 2022. The net result for the year was minus €37.2 million (compared with €127.7 million in the 2021). Given the trend in earnings and the pronounced deterioration in market conditions, Lenzing launched a reorganization and cost reduction program in Q3/2022. Implementation of the program is proceeding according to plan and is expected to save at least €70 million in costs per year once fully implemented. Following the fire that occurred in the shredding area at Renewcell 1 on March 22, 2023, work to assess and repair the damage has started. Initial assessment by Renewcell AB, Stockholm/ Sweden, is that the clean-up and repair work is expected to be completed within approx. 2 weeks. Some limited production will be possible during this period. The fire was extinguished shortly after the emergency services arrived at the site. All employees are safe, and nobody was injured. The fire was contained within the shredding area of the plant and caused damage to 1 of the 3 shredder units and 1 filter unit, both of which will be repaired. The damage was limited thanks to the proper functioning of on-site fire prevention and mitigation measures. An assessment of the need for any additional fire safety measures is ongoing. Sales increase due to high fiber prices Renewcell 1 to be operational in 2 weeks after fire At the same time, additional measures will be adopted to strengthen free cash flow, which stands at minus €740.7 million. This is mainly attributable to the investments in Brazil and Thailand. Thus, in addition to the cost reduction program, further steps will be taken in the months ahead to reduce working capital and reposition currency and energy price hedging. The temporary suspension of dividend payments is expected to boost free cash flow. As the lyocell plant in Thailand is now fully operational, Lenzing has the capacity to increase its share of specialty fibers substantially and is even better equipped to meet structurally rising demand for environmentally friendly Tencel and Veocel branded lyocell fibers. With a nominal capacity of 100,000 tons/year, the new production plant is the largest of its kind worldwide. The requisite dissolving wood pulp will also be provided by the new plant in Brazil in future. Despite multiple challenges, especially relating to the pandemic, Lenzing realized both projects on time and within the planned budget and has successfully placed the volumes produced to date on the market. In China and Indonesia, Lenzing is currently converting existing capacities for conventional viscose into those for environmentally friendly specialty fibers. In Nanjing, the company is about to complete the conversion of a production line to Tencel modal fibers. In Purwakarta, the company is creating additional capacities for Lenzing Ecovero branded fibers. The Indonesian site is set to become a pure specialty viscose provider in 2023. 8 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
In 2022, Spinnova saw sales increase to € 24.3 mill. (2021: € 6.1 mill.). Total investments were around € 16.3 mill. (2021: € 4.4 mill.). The increase was mainly related to the Woodspin joint venture (JV). Besides building the first commercial factory for Woodspin, a 50/50 JV between Spinnova and Suzano, feasibility planning for Woodspin’s second factory has been ongoing. The construction work for Woodspin’s first factory in central Finland was completed at the end of October 2022, after which work to finalize the technology installations has continued. The factory has started up and has been producing fibers since February 2023. The ramp-up will continue through 2023, gradually increasing production capacity. Textile development work by Spinnova Oy, Jyväskylä/Finland continues, with plans to launch the first products using micro-fibrillated cellulose (MFC) from Suzano SA, Salvador/Brazil, as raw material. Feasibility planning for the next plant progressed well during 2022. Both optimal size and comparison of brownfield and greenfield sites are under evaluation. Spinnova is actively working with Suzano to improve the efficiency of the raw Woodspin plant completed in 2022 COMPANY: Spinnova FOCUS: Business material process. At the same time Spinnova continues to further develop the technology concept of the spinning process. The business case for the next Woodspin factory investment is being finalized and will use the learnings from the first factory as it ramps up production. It is there- fore expected that the next Woodspin plant will be completed after 2024. At the end of 2022 the Respin pilot line built by Spinnova (a JV with KT Innovations AG, Hünenberg/Germany) produced fiber from leather waste raw material. Following the success of the pilot trials, Spinnova and shoe and leather goods pro- ducer Ecco GmbH, Hamburg/Germany, have agreed to proceed towards commercializing the product and to go ahead with a feasibility study and pre-engineering of the first commercial factory, which is planned to be located in the Netherlands. Spinnova will continue to work towards its long and medium-term business targets and execute its strategy accordingly in 2023. In 2023, revenues are estimated to be lower than in 2022, impacted by expected phasing of technology sales fees. The loss will increase during 2023 as the company is ramping up operations. 9 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
In May 2022, Advent and Lanxess announced the envisaged establishment of an Advent controlled, high-performance engineering ma- terials joint venture (JV) company with sales of around €3 billion, combining the DSM Engineering Materials business with Lanxess’ High Performance Materials business. Competition authorities have granted merger clearance for the JV by Advent International Corp., Boston, MA/USA, and Lanxess AG, Cologne/Germany. Most approved the transaction during the course of last year and lately the EU Commission granted clearance on January 9, 2023. The transaction is therefore ready for closing which is now planned to take place no later than the beginning of April 2023. Competition authorities clear engineering materials JV COMPANIES: Lanxess/Advent FOCUS: Business Effective May 1, 2023, IVL is changing the names of its legal entities belonging to its Business Unit (BU) “Mobility Group”. Indorama Ventures Public Company Ltd. (IVL), Bangkok/Thailand, has grown by acquisitions. As a result of the current renaming process, the company would like to foster a more unified brand experience. The renaming process has already begun and is expected to be completed in May. Other than the company name and contacts' email addresses, there will be no changes as a result of this name change. The staff in production, purchasing, sales and administration will remain unchanged. The corporate name changes do not alter any current written contracts and agreements, and all obligations and responsibilities remain unaffected by the change of name, only the company name will change. As part of the BU “Mobility” PHP Fibers GmbH, Obernburg/Germany, will also be affected by this change. Name changes in BU Mobility COMPANY: IVL FOCUS: Business Effective January 1, 2023, Milliken no longer treats textiles with PFAS chemistry. This achievement follows the company’s recent announcement that its science-based net-zero targets were approved by the UN-backed Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi). The Textile Business Unit (BU) of Milliken has successfully eliminated all per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) from its textile fibers and finishes portfolio, becoming the first US-based multi-market textile manufacturer to remove PFAS. The company announced an aggressive plan in February 2022 to eliminate PFAS as an ingredient in its textile portfolio by the end of the year. As of December 31, 2022, the Textile BU at Milliken10&Company, Spartanburg, SC/USA, had removed PFAS-based finishes and fibers, which spans multiple industries including flame-resistant, military, uniform and decor fabrics. The Textile BU began evaluating its portfolio in 2020 and segmented its evaluation efforts between 3 areas of focus: durable water repellency (DWR), soil release and oil repellency. Alternative DWR solutions were readily available in the market through accredited organizations such as bluesign. The Milliken research team assessed and implemented appropriate alternatives to maintain the performance and quality standards customers expect for DWR. Soil repellency proved to be both a challenge and an opportunity. A new soil release technology was developed and integrated into suitable textile applications without PFAS as an ingredient. The new technology, proprietary to Milliken, has shown equivalent and, in some cases, superior performance to previous PFAScontaining finishes. Currently, the new technology is not an alternative to every soil-repellent finish application. After an extensive search and vetting process for alternative oil repellency, no alternative was found, and the company exited those lines of business as a result. bluesign = registered trademark Textile business eliminates PFAS from portfolio COMPANY: Milliken FOCUS: Innovation 10 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
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MARKET REPORT: Fact.MR FOCUS: Business ASSOCIATION: ECHA FOCUS: Restriction The global market for textile chemicals is estimated at US$26.5 billion in 2022 and is forecast to surpass $40.6 billion by 2032, rising at a CAGR of 4.3 % from 2022 to 2032. The textile chemicals market holds ~1 % of the global chemicals market. In its new offering, Fact.MR, Dublin/Ireland, presents an unbiased analysis of the global textile chemicals market, presenting historical market data (2017-2021) and forecast statistics for the period of 2022-2032. The study reveals essential insights on the basis of product type (coating and sizing agents, finishing agents, surfactants), by fiber type (natural, synthetic fiber), and by application (apparel, home, automotive textile), across major regions of the world (North America, Latin America, Europe, East Asia, South Asia& Oceania, and the Middle East&Africa). North America tops the global textile chemicals market accounting for 42.3% of global market share in 2022. The apparel segment under the application segment contributes 31.2 % of market share in global sales of textile chemicals. FOCUS ON SUSTAINABILITY As a result of soaring environmental concerns, the demand for eco-friendly chemicals is expected to rise in textile chemicals market. Companies are looking for effective ways of reducing the volume of water and energy consumed during various stages of textile processing. Driven by this, the textile chemicals market is witnessing a shift from conventional textile chemicals to environmentally friendly ones. There is immense focus on the production of green chemicals using plant and animal fat/oils. Companies also are able to offer greater cost competitiveness as they shift to the production of bio-based chemicals. Spurred by these factors, white biotechnology that has emerged as an aid to reduce water consumption and green gas effect Textile chemicals market to reach $40.6 billion by 2032 Input on proposed PFAS restriction sought in the textile industry. The advent of this approach has led to widespread use of bio-dyes or natural dyes. Unlike traditional textile chemicals, bio-dyes do not cause harm to workers in the industry. Also, they are cost-effective, eco-friendly, and safer. The rising use of eco-friendly chemicals is indicative of increasing focus on adoption of sustainable approaches among the market players. The 6-month consultation on the restriction proposal, prepared by the Danish, German, Dutch, Norwegian and Swedish authorities, opened on March 22, 2023, and closes on September 25, 2023. The consultation is to give anyone with information on PFAS the opportunity to have their say. Of particular interest is information relevant to the risks, socio-economic aspects and alternative substances. Interested parties are invited to send in scientific and technical information on the manufacture, placing on the market and use of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) by September 25, 2023. The ECHA’s scientific committees for North America tops the global textile chemicals market accounting for 42.3% of global market share in 2022 Hydrophobic fabric COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE The global textile chemicals market is highly fragmented and competitive owing to the existence of many domestic and regional players. Various marketing strategies are adopted by key players such as mergers and acquisitions, expansions, collaborations and partnerships. Furthermore, new product development as a strategic approach is adopted by the leading companies to upscale their market presence among consumers. These strategies have resulted in the growth of textile chemicals. Fact.MR has provided detailed information about price points of key manufacturers in textile chemicals market positioned across regions, sales growth, production capacity, and speculative technological expansion in the recently published report. Next page 12 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress Risk Assessment (RAC) and for Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC) will use the consultation input to evaluate the proposed restriction and form an opinion on it. An online information session was held on April 5, 2023. During the session, experts from the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), Helsinki/Finland, and the 5 national authorities explained the restriction process, the content of the proposal and how to participate in the consultation. They also responded to questions from the participants. The 5 national authorities submitted the universal proposal to restrict PFAS to ECHA on January 13, 2023. The European Commission, together with the EU Member States, will eventually decide on the potential restriction based on the proposal and the committees’ opinion. A separate 60-day consultation of SEAC’s draft opinion concerning ECHA’s proposal to ban the placing on the market, use and formulation of all PFAS in firefighting foams is open from March 15 until May 15, 2023. Information concerning firefighting foams should be submitted in this consultation. COMPANY: Erca FOCUS: Business January 2023 marks the official birth of Erca Textile Chemical Solutions (TCS), a business unit (BU) of Erca S.p.A., Grassobbio/Italy, that will cater solely to the textile industry. The establishment of Erca TCS makes the BU a unique and innovative reference point for the company’s customers, with products and services designed specifically for the needs of the textile industry. Erca TCS bases its activities on the principles of "Green Chemistry" with the aim of offering the textile industry chemical solutions based on safety, performance and circularity. Its chemical auxiliaries incorporate responsible innovation, continuous research. The product and brand range is based on the circular economy. Revecol, the circular range of high-performance, GRS-certified chemical auxiliaries, can be used on any type of virgin or recycled fiber. With 7 plants in Europe, Latin America and Asia, the Erca group produces specialty and auxiliary chemicals with a responsible innovation approach and its production covers several markets: textiles, cosmetics, polyurethanes, concrete. It has a turnover of €150 million and employs 350 people worldwide. Circular chemical solutions for the textile industry 62 . DORNBIRN GFC Information and Ticket Registration: www.dornbirn-gfc.com June 7-14, 2023 in Milan/Italy www.itma.com ITMA 2023 September 2023 13 15 13 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
EVENT: Heimtextil 2024 FOCUS: Business INSTITUTE: Hohenstein FOCUS: Innovation Optimized hall planning and the new Carpets&Rugs product segment await international visitors and exhibitors at the international trade fair for home and contract textiles Heimtextil from January 9-12, 2024, in Frankfurt/Germany. Hall 3 and the new Hall 5 will be added to the line-up. Visitors will find the collections from the Wall Decoration segment, Textile Technology, the international range of Textile Designers and, as a highlight, the Heimtextil Trends 24/25. The Fibres & Yarns product segment for decorative and furniture fabrics, which was successfully launched in 2023, will be expanded and presented together with Interior.Architecture.Hospitality and Decorative & Furniture Fabrics, once again in hall 4.0. Visitors to the Heimtextil can also rely on the established offerings of Smart Bedding, Beautiful Living, Bed & Bath Fashion, Asian Excellence and Asian Selection. Heimtextil 2024 is expanding its portfolio with a separate product segment for carpets. The Carpets&Rugs segment will be located in the new Hall 5.1. On display will be: fitted, handmade and custom-made carpets, machine-made woven carpets, mats and dirt-absorbing carpeting as well as rugs and runners. Carpets are traditionally an integral part of Heimtextil and have so far been presented by the exhibitors in different halls. Starting in 2024, this range will be permanently combined in a separate segment on an annual basis. Heimtextil is thus responding to the increasing demand from the market. The global textile industry was represented at the Heimtextil 2023 with 44,000 visitors and 2,400 exhibitors together from 129 nations. To aid the pattern development and fit assessment that is particularly challenging for children's clothing, Hohenstein has conducted the first measurement series on babies and toddlers. The new database will help brands and manufacturers design their children's clothing in an accurate, efficient and more sustainable way using fit testing and pattern optimization. The Hohenstein Institute, Bönnigheim/Germany, have been taking body measurements for all target groups since 1957. Based on regular serial measurements taken with 3D body scans over 20 years, data is continuously updated. With the measurement of toddlers and babies, Hohenstein is now closing a gap in the market. 5,626 girls and boys in German sizes 56-182 cm were measured. This means that 3D scans of infants are available for the first time. The 3D body data form an indispensable basis for With separate segment Carpets&Rugs 3D body data for babies and toddlers New Carpets&Rugs product segment customer-specific measurement tables, child-friendly patterns and gradings, optimized fits as well as 3D children's avatars for clothing simulation. Hohenstein offers a wide range of tests for safe children's clothing from a single source. In addition to fit and pattern, Hohenstein carries out risk assessments and safety tests for children's clothing (e.g. cords according to DIN EN 13682), UV protection according to different standards, tests for harmful substances according to Oeko-Tex, among others. Toy testing is also part of the portfolio. 14 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
September 13-15, 2023 in Dornbirn /Austria www.dornbirn-gfc.com 62th Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress READY FOR NOW AND THE FUTURE MODERN, SOLID, PROFESSIONAL, CROSSMEDIA textiletechnology.net New colors New logos New layouts Constant content NordShield’s nature-based antimicrobial treatment to a natural material such as Ventile is a good example of product performance development that works just like nature, improving gradually and adapting to circumstances and conditions. As part of its ongoing sustainability initiative Ventile Fabrics, Stotz&Co. AG, Zurich/Switzerland, is cooperating with nature- based performance fiber technology supplier NordShield, Espoo/Finland. The NordShield technology creates an ultra-thin, molecular- sized barrier on the surface of fibers, which physically inhibits microorganisms. The first-of-its-kind technology forms a durable physical layer and acts as a shield, denying these microbes a suitable place to grow or survive and ultimately enhancing the longevity of an item. The barrier, which is applied after dyeing, part-way through the fabric’s production, does not affect the texture or color of the finished garment. With NordShield, Ventile can be made into even more long- lasting garments, that both protect the wearer from germs as well as keep fresh for a longer time, thereby reducing the need for washing. Since March 2023, Ventile customers have the opportunity to order fabrics that have been treated with the innovative woodbased technology from NordShield, which is biodegradable, sustainably produced, and free of heavy metals, borax, parabens, and quaternary ammonium compounds (QUATs). In 2021, Ventile announced its move to a PFC-free company in response to the growing demand for sustainable practices in the textile trade. The Ventile range consists of fabrics that offer increased sustainable credentials such as recycled cotton, organic cotton, and a choice of blended fabrics such as hemp, lyocell, and linen. Ventile fabric is designed to be waterproof, water-repellent, windproof and breathable. Wood-based barrier technology COMPANY: Ventile FOCUS: Innovation 15 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
In financial year (FY) 2022, Oerlikon Group sales increased by 9.8 % to CHF 2.9 billion. At a constant exchange rate (FX-adjusted), group sales increased by 13.9 %. The Polymer Processing Solutions Division of Oerlikon Management AG, Pfäffikon/Switzerland, experienced strong market demand in the first half (H1) of 2022. In H2/2022, the macro environment impacted discretionary textile spending, leading to some customers starting to postpone orders. Sales in this segment increased by 11.7 % (16.2 % FX-adjusted) to CHF 1.53 billion, driven by filament and non-filament and in part by the Oerlikon HRSflow business, which recorded all-time high sales and notably increased its market share. 75 years ago, the manufacturer of textile machinery Trützschler GmbH opened its headquarters in Mönchengladbach/Germany. The companies’ main customers include spinning mills from all over the world who use Trützschler technologies in a wide range of different applications. Trützschler supports its customers with recycling textiles and producing sustainable yarns from production waste or old textiles. The company also provides its customers with advantages when it comes to digitalization, which plays a central role in global markets. Examples include intelligent and self-optimizing machines, as well as digital platforms for optimizing processes and saving resources. The Mönchengladbach headquarters are the center of all Trützschler activities. Over 800 of the company’s 3,000 employees work at this site. The development, production, sales, admiMore orders and sales again in 2022 75th anniversary in Mönchengladbach COMPANY: Oerlikon FOCUS: Business COMPANY: Trützschler FOCUS: Anniversary The division achieved record order intakes in 2022. Order intake increased to CHF 1.57 billion (+8.3 %; +12.4 % FX-adjusted). Operational EBITDA in 2022 improved by 14.6% to CHF 244 million, or 16.0 % of sales, attributed to positive impacts from operating leverage, cost control and acquisition. In Q4/2022, the margin decreased compared to the previous year due to the positive mix effect in Q4/2021, costs related to elevated Covid cases in China and a provision for inflation compensation in Q4/2022. As a result, the Polymer Processing Solutions Division began to proactively implement measures to protect its cost base in Q4/2022. Therefore, it is expected that the division will be downsized by more than 800 employees. Order intake increased to CHF 1.57 billion nistration, and service activities are anchored here. The team at headquarters also coordinates other locations worldwide, including sites in Switzerland, the USA, Brazil, India and China. Global sales activities are steered from Mönchengladbach, too. The company also has a long tradition of training young people. For many years, Trützschler has been sponsoring students as part of the “Deutschlandstipendium” initiative. Accompanied by a supervisor, young people get to know the company and its products during the sponsorship year. Materials produced with the silk proteins balance optimal performance with minimal environmental impact. Evonik has entered into an agreement with the German biotech company AMSilk to produce industrial quantities of innovative, sustainable silk proteins. The silk can be used in a broad range of applications including high-quality fashion, smart materials in automotives, and medical devices. Evonik Industries AG, Essen/Germany, is producing the silk at its contract development and manufacturing (CDMO) precision fermentation site in Slovakia. With more than 3 decades as a fermentation partner to companies working on advanced food ingredients, pharmaceuticals and other innovators, Evonik’s Health Care business plays a key role in the company’s life sciences division, Nutrition & Care. The division provides solutions that achieve high functionality while closing carbon loops and preserving biodiversity. With a total fermentation capacity of over 4,000 m³ spanning a network of global sites in the USA, Europe and Asia, Evonik is well-positioned to support a wide range of projects regardless of scale and complexity. AMSilk GmbH, Munich/Germany, turns man-made proteins into silk formulations including fiber, hydrogels and silk powder for applications in the textile industry as well as for medical devices and consumer goods. All AMSilk materials are created with an end of life in mind, being completely vegan, biodegradable, and using renewable plant-based carbon, with no microplastics. Partnership to manufacture sustainable silk proteins COMPANIES: Evonik /AMSilk FOCUS: Collaboration 16 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
Herzog is here. We just can’t help it – and are finding the perfect braiding solution for every challenge. Always creative and 100% reliable. Doesn’t that sound great? Mark your calendar! Visit us at ITMA 2023 in Milan, June 08 – 14, hall H6, booth no. B101 Archroma announced the closing of the acquisition of the Textile Effects business from Huntsman Corp., The Woodlands, TX/USA, on February 28, 2023. When the Huntsman Textile Effects acquisition was first disclosed in August 2022, Archroma Group Chief Executive Officer (CEO) Heike van de Kerkhof called the transaction a “merger of equals”. Indeed, the global business of Huntsman Textile Effects comprises approx. 2,300 employees in 33 countries and 10 production sites globally which, when combined with Archroma, means the company will have more than 5,000 employees in total, in 42 countries and 35 production sites. The companies’ combined product portfolios will be highly complementary. Archroma Management GmbH, Pratteln/Switzerland, a portfolio company of private investment firm SK Capital Partners, LP, New York, NY/USA, is a leader in sustainable specialty chemicals and solutions for industries such as textiles, packaging & paper, paints and coatings. Since its formation in 2013, the company has been building a comprehensive portfolio of solutions to serve the apparel, textiles, packaging, paper, coatings, adhesives and sealants markets. Acquisition forms Archroma Textile Effects COMPANIES: Archroma/Huntsman Textile Effects FOCUS: Business L-to-R: Thomas Bucher, Heike van de Kerkhof, Sameer Singla, Rohit Aggarwal New divisions with new names In addition to the closing of the Textile Effects acquisition, Archroma announced that it has updated its overall business into 2 operating divisions for growth, each focused on a separate end market. The Textile Effects business acquired from Huntsman will be integrated with the Brand & Performance Textile Specialties business of Archroma into one new division named Archroma Textile Effects. The new division will be led by Rohit Aggarwal, former President of Huntsman Textile Effects, who is appointed as Divisional President & CEO of the Archroma Textile Effects division, as well as President Asia. The Packaging & Paper Specialties and Coatings, Adhesives & Sealants businesses of Archroma have been recently combined into one new division named Archroma Paper, Packaging & Coatings, under the leadership of Sameer Singla, Divisional President and CEO of the Archroma Paper, Packaging & Coatings division, as well as President Americas and EMEA (Europe, Middle East and Africa). 17 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
Purchase of land in Bensheim by Dürkopp Adler On February 28, 2023, the shareholder of Pfaff Industrial, Dürkopp Adler GmbH, purchased the optional ground in Stubenwald II in Bensheim/Germany in the presence of the Chinese shareholder of ShangGong Group, Mr. Zhang Min. Thus, the company premises of Pfaff Industrial at the Bensheim location will be extended from 16,000 to a total of 30,000 m². It is to be built on with an extension building and represents a clear commitment to the Bensheim site. Here, automated sewing solutions for the automotive, environmental and filter technology sectors, as well as for the aviation and home textiles are primarily developed and manufactured. Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH, Kaiserslautern/Germany, and Dürkopp Adler GmbH, Bielefeld/Germany, are members of the ShangGong Group, Shanghai/China, a leading group for industrial sewing and welding technology with an international sales and service network and a total of 4,000 employees worldwide. In February 2023, Dienes Werke celebrated its 110th anniversary. Founded in Remscheid/Germany, the company moved to its current location after WW1. DienesWerke fürMaschinenteileGmbH&Co. KG, Overath/Germany, has always diversified its product range so that, in addition to circular knives, it offers knife holders, multiple knife blocks, complete slitting systems and a wide range of services. Digital services from the TEOC (The End Of Coincidences) product family complete the portfolio in the field of hardware and software with the aim of providing customers with data-based optimization. As a second pillar, the company is also active in valve technology for industrial applications in compressors, pumps and compressors. In addition to the company anniversary, Dienes Werke is pleased to welcome Julian Supe-Dienes as an additional family member to the management team as of March 2023. Currently, Rudolf Supe-Dienes, who originally managed the company with his brother Bernd in the 3rd generation, is the sole managing director. With Julian Supe-Dienes, the 4th generation is now also represented in the management. After studying industrial engineering in Aachen/Germany, Julian Supe-Dienes was able to gain professional experience in leading international companies before joining the family business as sales manager in September 2021. With Maja Supe-Dienes, another member of the founding family has joined the company as of March 1, 2023. As project manager in the area of company development and optimization, she will develop and implement new business strategies in close cooperation with the management in order to continue to position the company for the future. After completing her Master's degree in Management at the ESMT in Berlin/Germany, she completed a traineeship at Dienes and subsequently worked for a leading management consultancy. 110th anniversary and 4 generations of family history COMPANY: Pfaff Industrial FOCUS: Investment COMPANY: Dienes FOCUS: Anniversary Stefan König MANAGEMENT As of March 1, 2023, Hans Buehler, CEO of the Optima Group, will transfer responsibility for the business unit Optima Nonwovens to Dr. Stefan König, Managing Director of Optima packaging group GmbH, Schwäbisch Hall/Germany. Dr. König takes over the responsibility of all associated nonwovens units worldwide. Since March 2021, Koenig has been a member of the Optima management board and is responsible for the Consumer and Life Science business units as well as corporate sustainability. Before Koenig joined Optima, he had held senior management positions for over 20 years, including 4 years spent in Asia. In his last position, Koenig was CEO at a globally active company. Francis Murphy MANAGEMENT Invista has announced the appointment of Francis Murphy as president and CEO. Murphy, who joined Invista S.à.r.l., Wichita, KS / USA, as part of the company’s acquisition of the Flint Hills Resources, LLC (FHR), Wichita, propylene business in 2022, brings 30 years of leadership at FHR, a Koch company and affiliate of Invista. InhistimeatFHR,Murphyhadvarious leadership responsibilities within its olefins, aromatics, polymer, base oil and light products businesses. Murphy leads the company following the retirement of Jeff Gentry after nearly 40 years with Invista and Koch companies. 18 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023
FASERN UND GARNE 19 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 Today, polyester accounts for 60 % of all textiles produced worldwide and a third of the fashion industry’s greenhouse gas emission. By replacing fossil fuel sources by CO2-based sources, sustainable and scalable solution to energy intensive industries can be found. This is the starting point for the EU-wide collaborative project “Threading CO2”, which is funded under the EU's Horizon funding program. The project will bring products made of environmentally friendly polyester (PET) to market maturity. The technological basis has been developed by Fairbrics SAS, Paris/France. It involves the production of monoethylene glycol (MEG), the starting material for the manufacture of polyester, using CO2 extracted from industrial waste gases. This is a completely new approach, because in the classic process fossil raw materials are consumed for the production of PET. In this way, not only is the release of CO2 into the atmosphere directly prevented. The CO2 also contributes to increased added value by being incorporated into the production of high-quality textile products. The core of the project is the technological upscaling of the new MEG synthesis process in pilot plants, paving the way for industrial production. Under the leadership of Fairbrics, 17 project partners from 7 European countries are unified with the common goal of producing end products from PET in a closed cycle using industrial CO2 emissions and to bring them to market maturity. A total amount of €22 million has been raised, €17 million from the Polyester fibers bind CO2 European Union’s Horizon 2020 Research&Innovation Program and €5 million from Partners to the Technology Upscaling Project. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF), Denkendorf/Germany, will take on the task of accompanying the upscaling and taking the step 'from molecule to material': From the sustainably produced MEG, polyesters are synthesized in their own laboratories, spun into fibers, textured and further processed. The aim is to test whether the quality of the polyester and its spinnability and processability in the textile value chain are comparable with conventional PET. The project partners Faurecia SA, Nanterre/France, and Les Tissages de Charlieu Sarl, Charlieu/France, process the fibers and textiles into car seats and clothing so that the quality can also be assessed in the end product. The subsequent recyclability of the products will also be tested at the DITF. In addition, a security marking is to be developed for this CO2-based polyester to protect it from product piracy. Fairbrics SAS Paris/France textiletechnology.net READY FOR NOW AND THE FUTURE DITF Denkendorf/Germany Using CO2 extracted from industrial waste gases FIBERS & YARNS FIBERS & YARNS
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