POLYMERS, FIBERS, FIBER PRODUCTION, NONWOVENS VISIT US AT: TEXTILETECHNOLOGY.NET IN THIS ISSUE Energy crisis and deindustrialization Bio-based and biodegradable topics Fiber and yarn developments DITF/naturamus IPF/IKV ITM IVL Nanollose/ Birla Cellulose SGL Carbon Teijin Frontier Germany is leaving the Premier League D 2 0 4 7 E ITMA Preview ISSUE 2 20 23 ENGL ISH
Brian Petter Head of Economics & Trade Department CIRFS Brussels/Belgium Frédéric Van Houte Director General The energy crisis and de-industrialization amid Europe’s green transformation 2022 was a “turning point” in Europe’s foreign and security policy. While geopolitics dominated the political agenda, Europe’s dependency on Russian fossil fuels triggered an energy crisis that is catalyzing the erosion of the industrial base. The manmade fibers (MMF) industry is one of the largest energy-intensive sectors in the textile value chain in Europe. It has been hit hard by the skyrocketing costs of energy and rawmaterial prices. This article explores the impact of the energy crisis on fiber production in Europe. Europe’s reliance and growing dependence on Russian (foreign) energy in recent years has left the region vulnerable to geopolitical tensions. For a long time, Russia has been one of the main suppliers of crude oil, natural gas and solid fossil fuels. Natural gas has played a central role in the decarbonization of the European industry as a cost-effective alternative to coal, reducing CO2 and air pollutants. Thus, it is not a surprise that the European Union’s gas consumption has constantly increased since the 1980s. For MMF producers in Europe, sustainability has been a priority for decades. Therefore, investments in renewables, in particular solar energy, have been promoted despite little or no support from national governments. For instance, the largest photovoltaic plant for self-consumption in Spain, one of the biggest in Europe, with over 15 MWp (megawatt peak) was built at an MMF production site. The industry has been able to implement energy intensity reduction targets and energy efficiency measures to monitor and reduce its energy consumption. Yet, the slow roll-out of renewable energy across the continent and the rising direct and indirect CO2 costs have driven many sectors, including MMF, towards gas cogeneration over the past years. Indeed, MMF relies heavily on natural gas which has been for long the most viable and reliable enabler of the green transition. In that sense, European MMF producers have been squeezing water from a stone while competitors mostly in Asia keep pollution rising thanks to coal-fired electricity, while benefiting from low state-regulated energy prices and substantial subsidies. Since 2022, European MMF companies have witnessed an extreme and sudden increase in operational expenses. No industry in Europe was spared by the dramatic increase in energy and raw material prices, inflation, and shortages of raw materials. Natural gas prices on the spot market reached an all-time peak of €236/MWh on a monthly average amid extreme volatility during 2022, whereas prices in the USA and China remained under €15/MWh. For some fiber producers the share of energy costs in relation to the total production costs skyrocketed dramatically. On top of this, MMF producers are being confronted not only with historically high CO2 certificate prices and a weakening demand in and outside Europe, but also with a massive surge of cheap imports of MMF and downstream textile products into the EU, placing additional pressure on local production and worsening the dependency of the textile value chain on China. EU fiber producers have been exposed to unfair competition through dumping and subsidies for many years and this phenomenon has only been reinforced since the energy crisis. Now, the measures taken by the European Union (EU) have certainly helped to reduce the EU’s dependency on Russian energy. But does Europe remain competitive in a globalized economy? Certainly not. Europe is still far away from a fair and competitive price for industrial electricity and gas consumption as well as from a successful energy transition. Aid is not reaching businesses due to unnecessary bureaucratic hurdles. The result: De-industrialization is not only a threat, it is a reality all across Europe. For instance, almost 50% of all MMF producers are insolvent in Germany and the first production sites in Belgium have been closed forever. For certain MMF, there may be just one producer left in the EU or even no producer at all. The EU’s reliance on inputs from distant shores, a vulnerability that the pandemic so clearly brought to light, has become extremely high and is deteriorating every day. The EU must take serious action to protect its MMF industry in Europe – an innovative and sustainable industry that contributes to the EU’s green deal and its open-strategic autonomy. How can the green deal and circular economy for textiles work properly without MMF industry in the EU? 3 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 LEADER
CONTENTS LEADER 3 The energy crisis and deindustrialization amid Europe’s green transformation B. Petter, F. Van Houte NEWS 6 – 22 DETAI LS SEE PAGE 6 FIBERS 24 – 25 New plant-based fibers from the residues of agricultural lavender plants J. Sarsour, I. Hildermann, S. Zikeli et al. 26 – 30 CF/AR/thermoplastic hybrid yarns for requirement-based thermoplastic composites M. Overberg et al. 31 – 33 Synchrotron radiation for the analysis of inorganic fibers – especially basalt fibers H. Lichtenberg, J. Hormes, W. Klysubun et al. 34 – 37 Solutions with recycled PET HMLS for automotive applications T. Buss, D. Bolgiaghi Page 24 – 25 I S SUE 2 | 2023 | VOLUME 73 FIBER PRODUCTION 38 – 40 Process-optimized hybrid yarns for the fiber-spraying process C. Scheffler, V. Austermann et al. 41 Significant air saving in the air interlacing of DTY N. Chiusolo, S. Gerber FIBER INDUSTRY 42 – 43 Waste fibers enable the recovery of metalliferous, dusty production residues M. Pelzer, S. Preiss et al. 44 – 46 Traceability and transparency requirements within the fashion and textile supply chain FibreTrace Page 34 – 37 4 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 CONTENTS
Page 50 – 51 Page 44 – 46 WWW.TEXTILETECHNOLOGY.NET NONWOVENS 47 – 49 From textile waste to nonwovens Re_fashion 50 – 51 Bioresorbable membrane for healing wounds Fraunhofer ISC/Fraunhofer ITEM 51 Electrically conductive and thermal insulating nonwovens University of Bayreuth ITMA PREVIEW 52 – 67 DETAI LS SEE PAGE 52 MANAGEMENT 25 Heike van de Kerkhof, Mark Garrett 25 Ben Selby 30 Paul Kiekens 37 Robert van de Kerkhof 37 Manfred Hackl 46 Harald Neumüller, Hermann Adrigan 46 Seshadri Ramkumar STATEMENT 70 … let’s be clear: Germany is leaving the Premier League M.M. Zimmer, W. Rauch INFO 68 – 69 Company index 69 Imprint Cover photo: Microscope image of a marine sponge (Source: imago) - Biopolymers as raw materials are also increasingly being used for fibers as sustainable carbon-neutral alternatives to petroleum-based polymers. 5 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 CONTENTS
NEWS OVERV I EW Page 6–22 INSTITUTE: DITF Low-cost carbon fibers from lignin COMPANY: Toray/Mitsui Sugar Inedible biomass-based sugar manufacturing technology COMPANY: Asahi Kasei/Microwave Chemical Chemical recycling of PA 66 using microwave-based technology INSTITUTE: NIRI Prototype-scale labs for cost-effective biopolymers COMPANY: AMSilk Extension of Series C Financing COMPANY: Fiberpartner Biodegradable bico fiber awarded COMPANY: Werewool $3.7 million raised for award winning fiber development COMPANY: Lenzing On course for recovery after difficult start COMPANY: Advansa Closure of production in Germany COMPANY: IVL German site focuses on automotive sector and specialties COMPANY: Senbis Biodegradation of biopolymeric fibers COMPANY: Aluula/UBC Recycling processes for high- performance composite materials INSTITUTE: nova-Institute Award for lyocell made from bacterial cellulose COMPANY: Asahi Kasei Degradable stretch solution for denim COMPANY: Lenzing Joint textile recycling project in Austria INSTITUTE: DITF Fiber composites made from biopolymers COMPANY: RadiciGroup 100% naturally sourced yarn COMPANY: Advent/Lanxess Engineering materials JV completely formed INSTITUTE: NIRI Chemistry consultancy expanded EVENT: Techtextil/Texprocess 2024 Innovations and sustainable solutions for the future COMPANY: Teijin Frontier Technology for removing PU elastomer fiber from apparel ASSOCIATION: AVK World market for composites increases to 12.7 million tons ASSOCIATION: ITMF Expectations booming in textile industry ASSOCIATION: Edana Nonwovens production at a higher level than pre-Covid COMPANY: A.Celli Start-up of complete end-of-line at PFNonwovens COMPANY: Freudenberg 75 years of Vlieseline COMPANY: Oerlikon Lower order intake COMPANY: Andritz Partnership for textile recycling COMPANY: SGL Carbon New carbon fiber withstands pressure up to 700 bar INSTITUTE: DITF FOCUS: Raw materials A novel, both environmentally friendly and cost-saving process for the production of carbon fibers from lignin has been developed at the DITF. It is characterized by high energy-saving potential. The avoidance of solvents and the use of natural raw materials make the process environmentally friendly. Carbon fibers are usually produced on an industrial scale from polyacrylonitrile (PAN). The stabilization and carbonization of Low-cost carbon fibers from lignin the fibers takes place with long dwell times in high-temperature furnaces. This costs a lot of energy and makes the fibers expensive. In addition, toxic by-products are produced that have to be separated from the manufacturing process in a costly and energy-intensive process. A novel process developed at the German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) in Denkendorf/Germany, enables high energy savings in all these process steps. Lignin replaces PAN for the production of precursor fibers, which are converted into carbon fibers in a second process step. Lignin as a starting material for the production of carbon fibers has so far received little attention in industrial production. It is an inexpensive raw material that is available in large quantities and is a waste product in paper production. Next page 6 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
COMPANY: Toray/Mitsui Sugar FOCUS: Raw materials A basic technology to manufacture sugar derived from inedible biomass has been established by Toray and Mitsui Sugar. The biomass includes surplus bagasse, a pulpy residue from sugarcane processing, and pulp that results from squeezing cassava at starch factories. Bringing this technology together with another that Toray is developing to create monomers from sugars should contribute to a circular economy by making it possible integrate the production of biomass-based polymers for fibers, films, resins, and other offerings. This demonstration project from Toray Industries, Inc. and Mitsui DM Sugar Co., Ltd., both Tokyo/Japan, entailed Toray verifying a process to separate, purify, and concentrate cellulose-derived sugars in inedible biomass. It leveraged a membrane-based bioprocess that combines the company’s water treatment membrane technology and enzymes that employ biotechnology. Toray undertook this effort at a demonstration facility in Thailand as part of a project that the New Energy and Industrial Technology Development Organization (NEDO), Kawasaki/Japan, is supporting. The company proved that Inedible biomass-based sugar manufacturing technology The new process for producing lignin fibers is based on an aqueous solution of lignin. For this purpose, wood is separated into its components, lignin and cellulose. A sulfite digestion process enables the production of lignosulfonate, which is dissolved in water. The spinning process itself is carried out in the so-called dry spinning process. In this process, an extruder presses the spinning mass through a nozzle into a heated spinning shaft. The resulting continuous fibers dry quickly and uniformly in the spinning shaft. This is a completely new and environmentally friendly approach because the process does not require the use of solvents or toxic additives. The following steps for the production of carbon fibers, namely stabilization in hot air and subsequent carbonization in the hightemperature furnace, are similar to those of the usual process when PAN is used as a precursor fiber. However, lignin fibers also show their advantages here, because they can be stabilized particularly quickly in the oven with hot air and only require relatively low temperatures in carbonization. The energy savings in these process steps compared with PAN are around 50% and represent a real competitive advantage. Thedry spinning process allows high spinning speeds. As a result, much more material is produced in a shorter time than is possible with PAN fibers. The lignin precursor fibers are extremely homogeneous, have smooth surfaces and no adhesions. Such structural features facilitate further processing into carbon fibers and ultimately also into fiber composites. In summary, the precursor lignin fibers obtained in the new spinning process show clear advantages over PAN in terms of cost efficiency and environmental compatibility. The mechanical properties of the carbon fibers produced from them, on the other hand, are almost comparable – they are just as strong, resistant and light as is known from commercially available products. Carbon fibers made from water-spun lignin fibers are likely to be of particular interest for applications in the construction and automotive sectors, which benefit greatly from cost reductions in the production process. Carbon fibers made from lignin (Source: DITF) carbon dioxide emissions from this process are less than half those of conventional production setups that concentrate sugar solutions by evaporating water. In 2022, Toray developed a 100% bio-based adipic acid, a raw material for polyamide 66 (PA 66), from sugars derived from inedible biomass. This achievement came fromusing a proprietary synthesis technique combining the company’s microbial fermentation technology and chemical purification technology that harnesses separation membranes. The recent demonstration was a first step toward creating a technology to make cellulosic sugar frombiomass, putting it on track tomass production. The company now looks to establish an integrated techno- logy to manufacture fiber and resin from abundant agricultural residue, avoiding competition with the food chain. Toray looks to set up a structure to supply cellulosic sugar in collaboration with Thai sugar refineries and starch manufacturers and other companies using biomass resources. It will endeavor to upscale technology from an effort under development to produce adipic acid from cellulosic sugar. In providing cellulosic sugars to chemical companies around the globe, the company seeks to help materialize a circular economy by replacing petroleum-based chemicals with plant-derived offerings that are not part of the food chain. The technology is a result of NEDO’s Demonstration Project for an Energy-Saving Cellulosic Sugar Production System using Bagasse under International Demonstration Project on Japan’s Energy Efficiency Technologies. The demonstration plant is at a site in Udon Thani Province/Thailand, of Cellulosic Biomass Technology Co., Ltd., whichToray andMitsui Sugar set up in 2017. 7 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
COMPANY: Asahi Kasei/Microwave Chemical FOCUS: Recycling A joint demonstration project with the objective of commercializing a chemical recycling process for polyamide 66 (PA 66) using microwave technology was launched in April 2023 by Asahi Kasei and Microwave Chemical. The process utilizes microwaves to depolymerize PA 66 and directly obtain the monomers hexamethylenediamine (HMD) and adipic acid (ADA), which is expected to be accomplished at high yield with low energy consumption. The monomers obtained can then be used to manufacture new PA 66. In the demonstration, scraps from manufacturing and post-use waste material of PA 66 for airbags and automobile parts are depolymerized. Asahi Kasei Corp., Tokyo/Japan, produces fossil fuel-derived HMD and ADA as intermediates to manufacture Leona PA 66, an engineering plastic featuring outstanding heat resistance and rigidity. PA 66 is used in various applications, including plastic parts for automotive and electronic products, and yarn for airbag fabric, and its demand is expected to increase worldwide. Microwave Chemical Co., Ltd., Osaka/Japan, is promoting technological and business development to achieve carbon neutrality in the industrial sector focused on process development using microwaves, which can directly and selectively heat target substances with high energy efficiency. For chemical recycling, the company is advancing its proprietary PlaWave technology platform for decomposing plastic using microwaves. Chemical recycling of PA 66 using microwave-based technology Through development combining Asahi Kasei's experience in manufacturing HMD and ADA with Microwave Chemical's achievements in the industrialization of microwave technology, the 2 companies aim to commercialize a manufacturing process for PA 66 that can reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions compared to the conventional manufacturing process. Laboratory-scale studies that began in 2021 have confirmed the high-yield depolymerization of PA 66 using microwaves, as well as the principle of the separation and purification process after depolymerization. Bench-scale equipment will now be assembled at Microwave Chemical’s Osaka factory by the end of 2023, and a small-scale demonstration trial using this equipment will be performed in 2024 to collect basic process data for commercialization. The PlaWave technology platform for decomposing plastic using microwaves can depolymerize PA 66 with low energy and obtain HMD and ADA monomers in high yield. The manufacturing process with this technology is expected to reduce GHG emissions compared to the conventional process, while further reduction of GHG emissions may be achieved by the use of renewable energy for the power required to generate the microwaves. By verifying the process from depolymerization to separation and purification in an integrated manner, this demonstration project aims to enable resource circulation of PA 66 for further reduction of GHG emissions. Moving forward, based on the results of the small-scale demonstration trial, a decision on the possibility of commercialization will be made by 2025 following detailed analysis. Concurrently with the small-scale demonstration trial, construction of a business model that involves the entire value chain in the chemical recycling of PA 66 will be advanced, aiming to achieve a circular economy together with stakeholders in the PA 66 value chain. Asahi Kasei aims to be a global partner for its PA 66 customers by providing solutions for their carbon neutrality initiatives through studies of the practical application of material recycling and chemical recycling as well as trials for the commercialization of PA 66 made using biomass-derived intermediates. Leona, PlaWave = trademarks Chemical decomposition of PA 66 using microwave technology 8 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
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Environmental imperatives such as the EU’s ambition to become the first carbon neutral continent by 2050 are transformational for the nonwovens industry, and the introduction of novel materials demands the input and collaboration of materials, textile, chemical and mechanical engineers. This is an area of applied research for the expert multidisciplinary team at the Nonwovens Innovation and Research Institute Ltd. (NIRI), Leeds/UK. The demand to reduce CO2 emissions, globally, includes those generated from polymer production, nonwovens production, converting and product assembly processes, and end of product life concerns. In this context, the shift away from fossil fuel-derived ma- terials to alternative materials is leading a transformation in nonwovens. However, looking at alternative biopolymers, for fiber/filament formation, there are currently a range of options available, including: • Reconstituted/regenerated polymers from agricultural resources (starch: starch binders; cellulose: viscose rayon, lyocell, modal) • Polymers from microbial production: PHA, PHBV • Polymers synthesized from agricultural resources into biopolymers: PLA, PCL, PBAT, PBS, PGA • Polymers synthesized from bio-resources into conventional polymers: bioPET, bioPP, bioPE, bioPA To achieve trouble-free processing and conversion of novel materials using conventional equipment is one challenge. The current alternative approach is to adapt conventional equipment to achieve trouble-free processing. Whichever route is pursued, for novel materials to be commercially viable they must meet the specifications and performance demands of the materials and products they are to replace. Prototype-scale labs for cost-effective biopolymers INSTITUTE: NIRI FOCUS: Biopolymers NIRI’s laboratories are equipped with prototyping-scale equipment to assess processability, explore polymer combinations with processing and performance additives, and to optimize process conditions for biopolymer extrusion into filaments, spunbound, and meltblown nonwovens. Equally, the demand to match the specification and performance properties of novel materials to conventional fabrics and products can be met. Laboratory-scale prototyping machines allow for cost- effective and time-effective changes to be made to the prototypes. This means a rapid succession of adaptations can be made, less intensive in material use, leading to effective optimization to provide confidence before more costly pilot and production trials take place. Once nonwoven webs are successfully formed, they require bonding. Carded, airlaid and wetlaid webs from novel biopolymers can be assessed for bonding using NIRI’s extensive range of bonding techniques, including mechanical (which requires no additional materials to consolidate webs into fabrics), thermal, and chemical. The main requirements for binders are their compatibility with diverse application methods – including spraying, coating, printing, and saturation – affinity to fibers, and bonding strength. As in the case of fiber and web formation, NIRI’s prototyping-scale bonding equipment is ideal for assessing the binder’s processability, exploring polymer combinations, and optimizing process conditions for bicomponent biopolymer extrusion into filaments, as well as the implementation of bonding techniques. The specifications and performance properties of the biopolymer prototypes can be tested according to industry standards using the analytical facility. COMPANY: AMSilk FOCUS: Business Further funding is enabling AMSilk to accelerate industrial scale-up and expand commercial operations of bio-fabricated silk protein materials. On April 4, 2023, MIG Capital AG, Munich/Germany, a venture capital investor, extended Series C financing of its associated company AMSilk GmbH, Planegg/Germany. AMSilk has successfully raised an additional €25 million led by existing investor ATHOS (AT Newtec) with participation from Novo Holdings, Cargill, and MIG Capital, bringing the total investment to €54 million. On the part of MIG, among other things the new MIG Fund 17 is involved. AMSilk's innovative technology platform produces biotechnologically manufactured materials based on silk proteins that are used in a wide range of applications such as textile fibers, medical applications and consumer products. Proceeds from the financing will enable AMSilk to accelerate the ongoing scale-up of its industrialization and commercialization projects worldwide, to meet the ever-increasing demand for the company’s innovative materials. Extension of Series C financing Next page 10 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
Fiberpartner is offering a future proof bicomponent (bico) fiber core sheath construction, developed from materials with a low carbon footprint. The innovative fiber is enhancedwith PrimaLoft Bio from PrimaLoft Inc., Latham, NY/USA, an additive technology, that is designed to biodegrade in environments where most plastics find themselves: landfills, wastewater and oceans. Furthermore, the bio-based PE used to produce BicoBio is derived from sugar cane and has a negative carbon footprint, further enhancing the fiber's eco-friendliness. Biodegradable bico fiber awarded COMPANY: Fiberpartner FOCUS: Fibers AMSilk’s unique bio-fabrication reprograms micro-organisms to enable them to produce silk proteins into usable forms such as powders, hydrogels, fibers, and coatings. Coupled with its unique fermentation process, this allows the company to produce complex proteins in large quantities for various market segments including textiles, medical use or consumer goods. AMSilk’s bio-fabricated silk materials are 100% protein, fully biodegradable and do not include any source of microplastics. BIODEGRADE IN ENVIRONMENTS $3.7 million raised for award winning fiber development COMPANY: Werewool FOCUS: Fiber Sustainable performance fibers company Werewool has raised US$3.7 million in seed funding led by venture capital companies Material Impact, Boston, MA/USA, and Sofinnova Partners, Paris/France, to further the company’s mission to produce biodegradable fibers with protein-based color and performance properties. The funds will be used to develop the company’s first product, protein fibers that can be spun into yarns, expand manufacturing capabilities, and grow the team. This investment comes at a time when the textile industry is one of the largest contributors to microplastic pollution. The plastic synthetic fibers used today employ non-biodegradable, harmful plasticizers that accumulate toxic chemicals, impacting biodiversity and human health. Werewool fibers have the potential to eliminate the need for petroleum-based raw materials, synthetic dyes, and toxic finishing processes that make the textile industry one of the largest contributors to accelerating climate change. Instead of reliance on these conventional methods and materials, the company uses protein structure to create these qualities. The technology is co-patented between the Fashion Institute of Technology and Columbia University, both also based in New York. Werewool, New York, NY/USA, has been recognized by the fashion industry for their innovation to prevent microfiber pollution and protect the planet. The supplier of high-performance synthetic fibers Fiberpartner ApS, Vejle/Denmark, was awarded with an Index Innovation Award at the Index23 in Geneva/Switzerland which took place from April 18-21, 2023, for the BicoBio fiber in the category of "Innovation in a Raw Material of Special Relevance to the Nonwovens Industry". Fibers can be processed in a variety of nonwovens technologies and used for different applications. The jury recognized that the hydrolytic biodegradation of fibers in landfill is beneficial for some nonwovens wapplications. The BicoBio fiber has been developed in collaboration with Far Eastern New Century Corp. (FENC), Taipei/Taiwan, and represents a breakthrough in the nonwovens industry, offering a solution that is both innovative and forward-thinking. 11 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
Closure of production in Germany COMPANY: Advansa FOCUS: Business In October 2022, the polyester manufacturer Advansa Manufacturing filed for insolvency. Now the responsible Insolvency Administrator, Holger Rhode, has agreed with the Creditors Committee to prepare the manufacturing plant for a closure scenario. This will lead to the closure of the manufacturing facilities and subsequent liquidation of the company in the coming months. Despite many efforts, it was not possible to find a viable concept for the continuation of production and healthy operation of Advansa Manufacturing GmbH, Hamm/Germany. It is expected that production will continue in coming months under the supervision of the administrator in order to consume raw material stocks and to be able to fulfill open and new orders to customers. The winding down of production operations in Hamm has no direct impact on the current business operations of the other Advansa Group companies, neither Advansa Marketing GmbH, Hamm, which will continue its operations as a supplier for all European and worldwide customers, nor the Advansa BV, Hoofddorp/Netherlands, which owns the relevant IP and trademark rights. Advansa has prepared for this eventuality and has access to significant fiber production capacities in Indonesia together with its affiliated company Asia Pacific Fibers TBK (APF), Jakarta/ Indonesia, as well several ongoing manufacturing cooperations and technology agreements with OEM producers. On course for recovery after difficult start German site focuses on automotive sector and specialties COMPANY: Lenzing FOCUS: Business COMPANY: IVL FOCUS: Business In the first quarter (Q1) of 2023, Lenzing saw signs of recovery in demand as well as in raw material and energy costs, after the market environment had deteriorated significantly in Q3 and Q4 of the previous year. Textile fibers recorded moderate but steadily improving demand. Business with fibers for nonwovens and with dissolving wood pulp performed better than expected. Raw material and energy costs were still at an elevated albeit decreasing level. Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria, succeeded in increasing revenues by 1.3 % to €623.1 million in Q1/2023. This growth was primarily due to higher pulp revenues, while fiber revenues were down. As a consequence, earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) decreased by 66.2 % year-on-year to € 29.7 million in Q1/2023. Lenzing launched a reorganization and cost-cutting program in Q3/2022 and is fully on track with its implementation. More than € 70 million in annual cost savings are targeted once the program has been fully implemented. Moreover, further measures were launched to bolster free cash flow. This amounted to minus € 132.3 million in Q1/2023 (Q1/2022: - € 102.9 million), particularly due to the negative result and the completion of strategic investment projects. Since 2021, Lenzing has invested more than € 200 million in production sites in China and Indonesia in order to convert existing capacities for generic viscose into capacities for environmentally responsible specialty fibers. In Nanjing/China, the conversion of a production line to Tencel modal fibers for textiles and apparel was successfully completed in Q1/2023. Tencel = registered trademark Global competitive pressure in the man-made fibers industry continues. For this reason, the IVL site in Obernburg/Germany will now focus on the core markets of tires and automotive safety/airbags and specialties, as well as drive selected product innovations for application in new market segments. Accordingly, the company plans to adjust its capacity at the Obern- burg site and cut around 80 of the current 620 total jobs by the end of the year in production and supporting functions. The jobs cuts affect both production and administration and sales positions. Representatives of the company and theWorks Council together informed employees about the situation on May 4, 2023. Indorama Ventures Public Company Ltd. (IVL), Bangkok/Thailand, is one of the world's leading manufacturers of synthetic fibers. The global production presence in Europe, Africa, the Americas and the Asia-Pacific region also includes the Obernburg site since the acquisition of the synthetic fibers manufacturer PHP Fibers in 2014. 12 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
Whatever it takes� �we dissolve it! LIST Kneader Reactors The proven platform for: all cellulose types all cellulose concentrations all water concentrations all solvents all process regimes all scales – lab to industrial LIST Technology AG Berstelstrasse 23 4422 Arisdorf Switzerland +41 (0)61 815 30 00 – info@list.ch www.list-technology.com Visit us at the Global Fiber Congress September 13-15, 2023 in Dornbirn, Austria Can the microplastic pollution from fibers be solved by developing biodegradable alternatives? Senbis Polymer Innovations B.V., Emmen/Netherlands, is currently investigating the correlation between biodegradation and mechanical properties in an EU-funded scientific project called "PolyBioDeg". The project is a collaboration between Senbis and the University of Amsterdam (UVA), Amsterdam/Netherlands, under the Horizon umbrella, and it is funded through Marie Skłodowska-Curie Actions Postdoctoral Fellowship (MSCA-PF). The project aims to explore the “structure-properties of melt-spun bioplastic fibers in correlation with their biodegradation behavior and mechanical performance”. The research will be led by Dr. Mohammadreza Naeimirad, who has experience in fiber melt-spinning and has worked at ITA in Aachen/Germany, EMPA in St. Gallen/Switzerland, and NSCU in Raleigh, NC/USA. Traditionally, composite materials are made by gluing together different core layers and outer films to create fabrics for use in a wide range of product applications. Using a patented fusion process, Aluula has developed a unique way to fuse high tech fibers and technical films together without the use of glues. This fusion process not only creates extremely light, strong, and durable fabrics, but materials that are recycle ready. Advanced materials technology company Aluula Composites Inc., Victoria/Canada, is collaborating with the University of British Columbia (UBC), Vancouver/Canada, to develop world-first recycling applications for Aluula’s high-performance, ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) based composite materials. An initial project with the Composites Research Network at UBC established the ability to compress Aluula material off-cuts and end-of-life products into uniform, lightweight and ultra-durable panels. These panels are unique because throughout the recycling process, the specialized UHMWPE fibers of the original materials are kept intact. This results in fiber reinforced composite panels that are 10x stronger than those molded from virgin UHMWPE. Together with UBC Manufacturing Engineering (MANU) students, Aluula is developing and refining applications for these panels that not only exploit the inherent light and strong material properties, but result in an end product that can be recycled again and again; lengthening the materials’ lifespan for years to come. The applications of these panels are suited to many tasks where strength, weight, abrasion resistance, and low friction are desirable, from backpack back panels to low friction wear plates. Biodegradation of biopolymeric fibers Recycling processes for high-performance composite materials COMPANYE: Senbis FOCUS: Bio-based fibers COMPANYE: Aluula/UBC FOCUS: Recycling RECYCLE READY 13 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
The bacteria-based cellulose fiber Nullarbor was presented with the Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023 at the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023 award, which was held in Cologne/Germany, on March 8-9, 2023. The annual conference is organized by nova-Institute GmbH, Hürth/Germany, and is a meeting point for the global cellu- lose fiber industry. 42 international speakers from 12 countries Award for lyocell made from bacterial cellulose INSTITUTE: nova-Institute FOCUS: Bio-based fibers Nullarbor, Circulose = registered trademark 1st place: Nullarbor – Nanollose and Birla Cellulose In 2020, Nanollose Ltd., Nedlands/Australia, and Birla Cellulose, Mumbai/India, started a journey to develop and commercialize tree-free lyocell from bacterial cellulose, called Nullarbor. The name derives from the Latin “nulla arbor” which means “no trees”. Initial lab research at both ends led to the joint patent application “production of high-tenacity lyocell fibers made from bacterial cellulose”. Nullarbor is significantly stronger than lyocell made from wood-based pulp; even adding small amounts of bacterial cellulose to wood pulp increases the fiber toughness. In 2022, the first pilot batch of 260 kg was produced with 20% bacterial pulp share. Several high- quality fabrics and garments were produced with this fiber. The collaboration between Nanollose and Birla Cellulose now focuses on increasing the production scale and amount of bacterial pulp in the fiber. 2nd place: Circulose – makes fashion circular – Renewcell (SE) Circulose made by Renewcell AB, Stockholm/Sweden, is a branded dissolving pulp made from 100% textile waste, like worn-out clothes and production scraps. It provides a unique material for fashion that is 100% recycled, recyclable, biodegradable, and of virgin-equivalent quality. It is used by fiber producers to make staple fiber or filaments like viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate or other types of man-made cellulosic fibers. In 2022, Renewcell, opened the world’s first textile-to-textile chemical recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden – Renewcell 1. The plant is expected to reach a capacity of 120,000 tons/year. 3nd place: Vybrana – The new generation banana fibre – Gencrest Bio Products (IN) Vybrana is a sustainable cellulosic fiber of Gencrest Bio Products pvt Ltd., Mumbai/India, upcycled from agrowaste. Raw fibers are extracted from the banana stem at the end of the plant lifecycle. The biomass waste is then treated by the Gencrest patented Fiberzyme technology. Here, cocktail enzyme formulations remove the high lignin content and other impurities and help fiber fibrillation. The company's proprietary cottonization process provides fine, spinnable cellulose staple fibers suitable for blending with other staple fibers and can be spun on any conventional spinning systems giving yarns sustainable apparel. Vybrana is produced without the use of heavy chemicals and minimized water consumption and in a waste-free process where balance biomass is converted to bio-stimulants Agrosatva and bio-based fertilizers and organic manure. presented current market insights and trends and demonstrated the innovation potential of cellulose fibers. More than 220 participants from 30 countries took advantage of on-site networking opportunities. Leading international experts presented new technologies for recycling cellulose-rich raw materials and innovative circular economy practices in textiles, packaging and hygiene, which were discussed with the help of active audience participation in 7 panel discussions. At the end of the first conference day, participants voted for the Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year Award: 14 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
The international eco tech yarn innovator and manufacturer Roica by Asahi Kasei presented its latest innovation, the premium and smart stretch yarn Roica V550, at Kingpins Show in Amsterdam/Netherlands from April 12-13, 2023. The sustainable degradable yarn by Asahi Kasei Corp., Tokyo/ Japan, Roica V550 is a Cradle to Cradle Certified stretch yarn with a Material Health Gold Level Certificate. It degrades under ISO 14855 1 tested by OWS decomposing to CO2 and water. Artistic Milliners, Karachi/Pakistan, was the first manufacturer to develop cradle-to-cradle Gold Certified Denim Fabric in partnership with G-Star Raw using Roica V550 premium and degradable stretch. Its Earthcore platform focuses on using biodegradable/compostable materials, with stretch being represented by the degradable Roica V550 premium stretch ingredient, which aligns with the principles of total circularity, generating zero waste. Roica, Cradle to Cradle Certified, Ciclo = trademarks Lenzing, ARA, Salesianer Miettex, Caritas and Södra are joining forces to drive forward the transition to circularity. Here, Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria, has taken another big step towards achieving a circular future in collaboration with several partners. Austrian companies and not-for-profit organizations, including Lenzing’s logistics and sorting partner Altstoff Recycling Austria AG (ARA), the textile service provider Salesianer Miettex GmbH, both Vienna/Austria, and Caritas, Pöchlarn/Austria, as well as the pulp producer Södra, Växjö/Sweden, have joined forces to collect used household and clothing textiles for reprocessing to produce pulp and, ultimately, new lyocell and viscose fibers. In this pilot project, used textiles collected by Salesianer Miettex that are not suitable for reuse will be passed on to ARA, before being delivered to Caritas for sorting by hand at a recycling plant. After the sorting process, the textiles will be delivered to Södra for recycling and processing to produce OnceMore pulp. This method is a forerunner in the industrial recycling of textile waste made from blended fibers. Lenzing will then apply its innovative Refibra technology to produce new lyocell and viscose fibers. The aim is to reach an annual processing capacity of 50,000 tons of textile waste by 2027. OnceMore = registered trademark Refibra = trademark Degradable stretch solution for denim Joint textile recycling project in Austria COMPANY: Asahi Kasei FOCUS: Fibers COMPANY: Lenzing FOCUS: Recycling 15 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
Organosheets are increasingly being used within the fast- growing segment of lightweight fiber composite construction. The textile reinforcement of organosheets consists mainly of glass, carbon, basalt or aramid fibers. These fibers have high stiffnesses and tensile strengths, but are energy-intensive to manufacture and recycle and can only be recycled in an increasingly low-grade condition. In collaboration with the project partners CG TEC, Cordenka, ElringKlinger, Fiber Engineering and Technikum Laubholz, the DITF are developing a new fiber composite material Cellun with reinforcing fibers made of cellulose. The matrix of the material is a thermoplastic cellulose derivative that can be processed using industrial processing methods such as hot pressing or pultrusion. Cellun made from renewable biopolymers enables the replacement of glass or carbon fibers in the production of industrial molded parts. In contrast, the Cellun composite developed at the German Institutes for Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) in Denkendorf/Germany, is a much more sustainable alternative. For the production of Cellun, the reinforcing component is combined from non-fusible cellulose fibers as well as thermoplastic derivatized cellulose fibers as matrix to form a hybrid roving. The cellulosic reinforcing fibers used are regenerated fibers from the company Cordenka and the HighPerCell cellulose fibers developed at DITF. Cellun is now being further developed to industrial maturity as part of a joint project funded by the German Federal Ministry of Economics and Climate Protection (BMWK), Berlin. The tasks of the DITF in the Cellun joint project are primarily the production of suitable cellulose-based reinforcing fibers and the embedding of the fibers in the thermoplastic cellulose derivative matrix. The material is further processed in the in-house pilot plants into technical hybrid rovings and hybrid textiles. Using pultrusion and thermoforming processes or injection molding, molded parts can finally be produced that illustrate the technical application possibilities of the new material. Fiber composites made from biopolymers INSTITUTE: DITF FOCUS: Biopolymers Effective April 1, 2023, Lanxess and private equity investor Advent have completed the formation of their engineering materials joint venture (JV). The new company is the combination of DSM’s Engineering Materials business and Lanxess’s former High Performance Materials business. Lanxess AG, Cologne/Germany, holds about 40% of the JV, Advent International Corp., Boston, MA/USA, about 60%. Lanxess also received a cash payment of around €1.3 billion on March 31, 2023, and is using this mainly to reduce its debt and strengthen its balance sheet. As financial support for the JV, Lanxess will be providing a loan of €200 million. Castor oil is the source of new 100% sustainable yarns from RadiciGroup, which can be used for fabrics and fine garments in many sectors, from fashion to sports, from automotive to home textiles. Biofeel Eleven is a natural-sourced yarn with very good technical and environmental performance from RadiciGroup SpA, Grandino/Italy, which was launched at the Performance Days trade fair in Munich/Germany in March. Castor beans contain around 45% oil, rich in ricinolein, from which the bio-polymer polyamide 11 (PA 11) is derived. This is used for the Biofeel Eleven yarn. Highly effective bio-fertilizer that remains is returned to the soil in an example of circularity and “zero waste”. Yarn properties include low water absorption, increased lightness and improved strength. This produces fabrics that are both durable and comfortable to the touch and skin, making them suitable for a wide range of applications, e.g. sportswear, workwear, garments and textiles for cars. Biofeel Eleven can also be solution dyed, saving water and energy and also providing greater color stability. Significantly reduced CO2 emissions from this yarn have been demonstrated through the ISO 14040 based LCA (Life Cycle Assessment) methodology. Biofeel = registered trademark Engineering materials JV completely formed 100% naturally sourced yarn COMPANY: Advent/Lanxess FOCUS: Fibers COMPANY: RadiciGroup FOCUS: Bio-based fibers 16 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
VacuFil is a PET recycling line with direct feed to your spinning line or pelletizer. Developed by real spinning experts and equipped with the Visco+ unit for the requested IV-boost and homogenous melt VacuFil ensures the exact melt quality you need – reliable and reproducible! IV-increase up to 30% IV-homogeneity Compact size Spinnability POY, DTY, FDY, BCF Patent pending Bringing spinning know-how into recycling High-quality rPET for high-quality products www.bbeng.de • sales@bbeng.de • +49 2191 9510100
Investing in state-of-the-art facilities and equipment and bolstering its specialist chemistry support and advanced materials research capabilities, NIRI has expanded its chemistry consultancy offering. Offering expert advice on a range of topics including reformulation, characterization, supply chain validation, and technology transfer, the Nonwovens Innovation & Research Institute Ltd., Leeds/UK, is well placed to provide expert guidance and support to clients looking improve the quality and performance of their products and decrease the time to market. With a high standard of expertise in chemistry and advanced materials consultancy, NIRI has more than 400 years of textile science expertise across the company. The institute is expanding with new team members including Innovation Scientists and Innovation Engineers. Furthermore, its expansion into new premises will further enhance their customer offering – helping more businesses develop new products, using the institute’s R&D expertise and state-of-the-art facilities. From its origins, in 2005, NIRI has grown to become a leading consultancy business focusing on nonwovens products and processes, with a significant emphasis on technology transfer. Pilot-scale manufacturing, to support companies’ product development from laboratory scale through to technology and manufacturing demonstration, is a specialism and capability that sees the institute supporting novel product development across sectors such as PPE and wider medical applications, hygiene, automotive, filtration and defense. One of the areas where NIRI’s chemistry expertise is best utilized is in reverse engineering, and clients across a wide range of sectors consult with the institute regarding the capacity to strip products down to their constituent parts; to characterize and determine the chemical composition of these constituents, and to evaluate, and determine the optimum materials for manufacture. Chemistry consultancy expanded INSTITUTE: NIRI FOCUS: Nonwovens EVENT: Techtextil/Texprocess 2024 FOCUS: Innovation The planning for the Techtextil and Texprocess trade fairs from April 23-26, 2024, in Frankfurt/Germany is off to a promising start. Exhibitors from over 40 countries have already registered to take part. This also includes exhibitors who decided not to participate in 2022. In 2024, for example, Brazil will be represented again. The coming trade fair editions will revolve around the theme of sustainability and present future-oriented solutions for the textile industry. Start-ups are given a high-visibility platform. The Techtextil and the Texprocess reflect the innovative power of technical textiles, textile manufacturing and processing technologies. This is demonstrated by a broad spectrum of exhibitor presentations and a comprehensive complementary program, including the Innovation Awards of both events. All product segments, from fibers and yarns to nonwovens and coated textiles, including textile manufacturing technology, will be presented at the Techtextil. Numerous organizers of joint stands have declared their participation. From Germany, for example, the IVGT - Industrieverband Veredlung - Garne - Gewebe - Technische Textilien e.V. (Industrial Association for Finishing - Yarns - Fabrics – Technical Textiles), VDMA Services GmbH with the VDMA Textile Machinery, the Saxon joint stand organized by the Verband der NordOstdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie (Association of the North-East German Textile and Clothing Industry) or Bayern Innovativ with a joint presentation. Internationally, country presentations from China, France, Italy, Japan, Spain, the Czech Republic, Turkey and Switzerland are already announced. Start-ups Young, innovative companies receive special attention at the Techtextil and the Texprocess. They can be targeted in a separate area and have the opportunity to present their products to international decision-makers. At the trade fairs, they can find new business partners and customers. They also benefit from international media interest and can access new target groups. Denim processing of the future Visitors to both events will find special shows tailored to their interests. For example, a separate area at the Texprocess is devoted to denim production and processing. Here, visitors can experience innovative approaches for the growth market of denim at first hand. Innovations and sustainable solutions for the future 18 MAN-MADE FIBERS INTERNATIONAL 2 | 2023 NEWS
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