ISSUE 3 20 23 ENGL ISH IN THIS ISSUE Shortage of skilled workers Fibers Advansa Lenzing PSG College Recycling Andritz Asahi Kasei/Microwave Chemical HKRITA Renewcell/Textile- Genesis Rieter Teijin Frontier Finishing that works just like nature D 5 8 6 2 E FIBERS, SPINNING, WEAVING, KNITTING, TEXTILE FINISHING VISIT US AT: TEXTILETECHNOLOGY.NET ITMA Preview
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Urs Konstantin Rouette Owner Rouette Executive Search Rosenheim/Germany The shortage of skilled workers – the painful path to new visions A company's capital is not its product, but the employees who create it. If jobs remain unfilled too often for too long, this endangers the success of the company. The balance of power in the labor market has shifted, and this painful fact must clear the way for new visions. The labor market is changing more than some prefer According to a survey by the German Chamber of Commerce and Industry, more than half of all companies are already affected by staff shortages. At first glance, the reason for this seems to be obvious: the baby-boomer generation, which has a high birth rate and is industrious, is beginning to retire. The following, low-birth-rate generations, for whom their private lives are more important than their jobs, are not able to compensate for this. However, if you look a little closer, you will notice that the following generations are well educated, consider work and family to be of equal value and want to make a difference. Probably for the first time in history, workers are empowered to make demands, however uncomfortable and painful this fact may be for companies. As is well known, lamenting is not a business model, the focus must be rather on improving all those internal structures that make a company so attractive to workers that it remains successful and sustainable. Companies as applicants Companies that have so far relied on the attractiveness of their brands or their innovative strength to attract and retain talent need to rethink this attitude in a timely manner. Employees are a company's most important asset and its most volatile at the same time. Personal priorities are shifting for employees at all levels. Their personality, competence and motivation are the driving force behind the company's success; their departure endangers it. In the meantime, companies are courting employees. How companies achieve this is outlined below. The composition of the workforce is changing For alleviating the shortage of skilled workers, people who previously had little chance of a career must be included. Often, these people fall short of their potential despite good training because their circumstances make them dependent on flexible as well as digital work opportunities. Companies should not miss the opportunity to unearth this treasure. Leadership as a task instead of an end in itself In this context, good leadership is becoming increasingly important. Managers must lead. This core task of personal leadership is often counteracted by corporate structures. Some managers cannot lead. They became managers because they were the best at fulfilling the technical tasks or because it was time for a promotion, without having been prepared for it or their personality being suitable. Others are not allowed to lead because they are prevented from doing so by a heavy workload with day-to-day professional activities. Still others get lost in micromanaging their team, which not only eats up a lot of time, but also demotivates teams with outstanding professional skills. Leaders in highly hierarchical organizations, in which a lot of value is placed on status symbols, are particularly at risk. Recognition in professional work Some of the deficits in leadership described above can be prevented by rewarding professional successes not only through hierarchical promotions, but above all through appreciation. Appreciation is not an empty phrase if professional and disciplinary competence are equally valued by the company in terms of recognition and remuneration. Managers and specialists then work in their respective fields with full power, unhindered, self-responsible and fairly paid. Incidentally, this idea of self- responsibility and equality also underlies modern, very successful project methods and promotes a positive error culture. And what does that mean in everyday life? Companies need to take a critical look at themselves and their beliefs. Do we find status symbols, hierarchies and working in presence important or can we put the costs of previous structures and status symbols into our digital equipment so that processes become more efficient, and people can work for us without relocating and long commutes? Can we become so attractive with flexible working time and contract models similar to those of freelancers that specialists from all over the world want to work for us? Do we trust in the creativity, knowledge and motivation of our employees and pave the way for them to fully utilize this potential for us? Do we carry on as before, endure the associated pain, or do we break up the conventional structures with vision? The answer is simple. Or not? 3 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023 LEADER
LEADER 3 The shortage of skilled workers – the painful path to new visions U.K. Rouette NEWS 6 – 19 DETAI LS SEE PAGE 6 FIBERS & YARNS 20 Cattail fiber and its potential applications T. Karthik 22 Significant air saving in the air interlacing of DTY N. Chiusolo, S. Gerber SPINNING 23 Increasing recycled content – improving yarn quality Rieter WEAVING 24 Simulation-based development of 3D woven fabrics for high-tech applications T.A.M. Huynh et al. CONTENTS I S SUE 3 | 2023 | VOLUME 2 9 Page 66 Page 29 ! 4 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023 CONTENTS
MANAGEMENT 14 Heike van de Kerkhof, Mark Garrett 14 Ben Selby, Kim Poulsen 18 Paul Kiekens 27 Robert van de Kerkhof 27 Karine Valvet, Pierre-Yves Roussel 33 Seshadri Ramkumar, Jan O’Regan, Jim Robinson, Ed Thomas INTERVIEW 82 Finishing that works just like nature D. Odermatt INFOS 81 Company index 81 Imprint WWW.TEXTILETECHNOLOGY.NET Page 44 Page 46 ITMA PREVIEW 34 – 80 DETAI LS SEE PAGE 34 TEXTILE INDUSTRY 28 Electromagnetic interference shielding using textile material M. Baraiya et al. 31 Fabric with increased ultraviolet rays’ resistance V.K. Gupta, S.B. Rajpur 5 MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023 CONTENTS
NEWS COMPANY: Freudenberg 75 years of Vlieseline COMPANY: DyStar Restructuring plan for Ludwigshafen plant facility ASSOCIATION: Fashion for Good Sustainable dyestuff library COMPANY: Lectra New manufacturing facility in Tolland COMPANY: ITA Holding /A.Celli Acquisition of Sadas COMPANY: Andritz Partnership for textile recycling COMPANY: Oerlikon Lower order intake COMPANY: Lectra Stable revenues and decline in EBITDA in Q1/2023 Page 6– 18 COMPANY: Asahi Kasei/Microwave Chemical Chemical recycling of PA 66 using microwave-based technology COMPANY: Lenzing Locally produced Tencel fibers to Chinese customers COMPANYA: Advansa Closure of production in Germany COMPANY: Lenzing On course for recovery after difficult start COMPANY: Teijin Frontier Technology for removing PU elastomer fiber from apparel ASSOCIATION: Better Cotton Trials for traceability solutions in India ASSOCIATION: Oeko-Tex Launch of certification for organic cotton EVENT: Techtextil/Texprocess 2024 Innovations and sustainable solutions for the future ASSOCIATION: ITMF Expectations booming in textile industry ASSOCIATION: AATCC MOU for Sri Lanka National Standards INSTITUTE: HKRITA MOUs with Shinshu University and Seiko Epson COMPANY: Asahi Kasei Investment in start-ups focused on carbon neutrality COMPANY: Renewcell Partnership for Circulose pulp-to-retail transparency OVERV I EW COMPANY: Asahi Kasei/Microwave Chemical FOCUS: Recycling A joint demonstration project with the objective of commercializing a chemical recycling process for polyamide 66 (PA 66) using microwave technology was launched in April 2023 by Asahi Kasei and Microwave Chemical. The process utilizes microwaves to depolymerize PA 66 and directly obtain the monomers hexamethylenediamine (HMD) and adipic acid (ADA), which is expected to be accomplished at high yield with low energy consumption. The monomers obtained can then be used to manufacture new PA 66. In the demonstration, scraps from manufacturing and post-use waste material of PA 66 for airbags and automobile parts are depolymerized. Chemical recycling of PA 66 using microwave-based technology Asahi Kasei Corp., Tokyo/Japan, produces fossil fuel-derived HMD and ADA as intermediates to manufacture Leona PA 66, an engineering plastic featuring outstanding heat resistance and rigidity. PA 66 is used in various applications, including plastic parts for automotive and electronic products, and yarn for airbag fabric, and its demand is expected to increase worldwide. Microwave Chemical Co., Ltd., Osaka/Japan, is promoting technological and business development to achieve carbon neutrality in the industrial sector focused on process development using microwaves, which can directly and selectively heat target substances with high energy efficiency. For chemical recycling, the company is advancing its proprietary PlaWave technology platform for decomposing plastic using microwaves. Through development combining Asahi Kasei's experience in manufacturing HMD and ADA with Microwave Chemical's achievements in the industrialization of microwave technology, the 2 companies aim to commercialize a manufacturing process for PA 66 that can reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions compared to the conventional manufacturing process. Laboratory-scale studies that began in 2021 have confirmed the high-yield depolymerization of PA 66 using microwaves, as well as the principle of the separation and purification process after depolymerization. Bench-scale equipment will now be assembled at Microwave Chemical’s Osaka factory by the end of 2023, and a small-scale demonstration trial using this equipment will Next page 6 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
be performed in 2024 to collect basic process data for commercialization. The PlaWave technology platform for decomposing plastic using microwaves can depolymerize PA 66 with low energy and obtain HMD and ADA monomers in high yield. The manufacturing process with this technology is expected to reduce GHG emissions compared to the conventional process, while further reduction of GHG emissions may be achieved by the use of renewable energy for the power required to generate the microwaves. By verifying the process from depolymerization to separation and purification in an integrated manner, this demonstration project aims to enable resource circulation of PA 66 for further reduction of GHG emissions. Moving forward, based on the results of the small-scale demonstration trial, a decision on the possibility of commercialization will be made by 2025 following detailed analysis. Concurrently with the small-scale demonstration trial, construction of a business model that involves the entire value chain in the chemical recycling of PA 66 will be advanced, aiming to achieve a circular economy together with stakeholders in the PA 66 value chain. Asahi Kasei aims to be a global partner for its PA 66 customers by providing solutions for their carbon neutrality initiatives through studies of the practical application of material recycling and chemical recycling as well as trials for the commercialization of PA 66 made using biomass-derived intermediates. Leona, PlaWave = trademarks Chemical decomposition of PA 66 using microwave technology 7 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
Closure of production in Germany Locally produced Tencel fibers to Chinese customers On course for recovery after difficult start COMPANY: Advansa FOCUS: Business COMPANY: Lenzing FOCUS: Business COMPANY: Lenzing FOCUS: Investment In October 2022, the polyester manufacturer Advansa Manufacturing filed for insolvency. Now the responsible Insolvency Administrator, Holger Rhode, has agreed with the Creditors Committee to prepare the manufacturing plant for a closure scenario. This will lead to the closure of the manufacturing facilities and subsequent liquidation of the company in the coming months. Despite many efforts, it was not possible to find a viable concept for the continuation of production and healthy operation of Advansa Manufacturing GmbH, Hamm/Germany. It is expected that production will continue in coming months under the supervision of the administrator in order to consume raw material stocks and to be able to fulfill open and new orders to customers. The winding down of production operations in Hamm has no direct impact on the current business operations of the other Advansa Group companies, neither Advansa Marketing GmbH, Hamm, which will continue its operations as a supplier for all European and worldwide customers, nor the Advansa BV, Hoofddorp/Netherlands, which owns the relevant IP and trademark rights. Advansa has prepared for this eventuality and has access to significant fiber production capacities in Indonesia together with its affiliated company Asia Pacific Fibers TBK (APF), Jakarta/ Indonesia, as well several ongoing manufacturing cooperations and technology agreements with OEM producers. The conversion of a production line from generic viscose to Tencel branded modal fibers for textiles and clothing has been successfully completed by Lenzing. The company is therefore in a position to offer its Chinese customers locally produced Tencel fibers for the first time and meet the structural growth in demand more quickly. Thanks to the conversion of the production line with a capacity of 35,000 tons/year, the fiber portfolio of the production site in Nanjing/China now solely consists of eco-friendly specialty fibers. In addition, Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria, also offers Lenzing Ecovero branded fibers for textile applications and viscose eco fibers for nonwovens applications in China. Lenzing is investing €100 million in its Chinese site to further reduce carbon emissions and upgrade the product portfolio. Here, the company is currently implementing a gradual shift to green energy, where electricity will be solely derived from renewable sources from 2023 onwards. Tencel, Lenzing, Ecovero = trademarks In the first quarter (Q1) of 2023, Lenzing saw signs of recovery in demand as well as in raw material and energy costs, after the market environment had deteriorated significantly in Q3 and Q4 of the previous year. Textile fibers recorded moderate but steadily improving demand. Business with fibers for nonwovens and with dissolving wood pulp performed better than expected. Raw material and energy costs were still at an elevated albeit decreasing level. Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria, succeeded in increasing revenues by 1.3 % to €623.1 million in Q1/2023. This growth was primarily due to higher pulp revenues, while fiber revenues were down. As a consequence, earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) decreased by 66.2 % year-on-year to € 29.7 million in Q1/2023. Lenzing launched a reorganization and cost-cutting program in Q3/2022 and is fully on track with its implementation. More than € 70 million in annual cost savings are targeted once the program has been fully implemented. Moreover, further measures were launched to bolster free cash flow. This amounted to minus € 132.3 million in Q1/2023 (Q1/2022: - € 102.9 million), particularly due to the negative result and the completion of strategic investment projects. Since 2021, Lenzing has invested more than € 200 million in production sites in China and Indonesia in order to convert existing capacities for generic viscose into capacities for environmentally responsible specialty fibers. In Nanjing/China, the conversion of a production line to Tencel modal fibers for textiles and apparel was successfully completed in Q1/2023. Tencel = registered trademark 8 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
COMPANY: Teijin Frontier FOCUS: Innovation A new foreign material removal technology to eliminate polyurethane (PU) elastomer fiber from discarded polyester apparel has been developed by Teijin Frontier. The technology features a new processing agent used during the pre-treatment phase of the chemical recycling process, which helps improve the quality of the recycled polyester fiber that is derived from clothing containing PU elastomer fiber. In addition to removing the PU elastomer fiber, the new technology eliminates foreign materials such as dyes, and helps to omit the decolorization process of polyester fiber. The new foreign material removal technology swells the PU elastomer fiber, breaks the chemical bonds and dissolves them with the new processing agent. Simultaneously, the agent eliminates foreign substances including dyes to optimize decolorization of the polyester fiber. For system cost control and environmental load reduction, the processing agent can be collected and reused. Recycled polyester materials generated by this method can be used in the existing chemical recycling process. Teijin Frontier Co., Ltd. Osaka/Japan, has been conducting tests of this new technology since October 2022 for practical use. As part of its initiative focused on polyester fiber, the company is Technology for removing PU elastomer fiber from apparel New foreign materials removal technology working with the supply chain to establish a comprehensive ecosystem spanning apparel collection, sorting and recycling. The new foreign material removal method should help expand the scope of fiber-to-fiber recycling and contribute to a zero-waste society. Stretchable polyester clothing that contains PU elastomer fiber is becoming popular as the demand in the industry for quick-drying, wrinkle-resistant, and comfortable-to-wear is increasing along with the trend to casual wear. However, as conventional chemical recycling technology for polyester assumes 100%polyester products, the quality of the recycled product deteriorates when PU elastomer fibers are included. Therefore, it is important to remove PU elastomer fiber from discarded polyester clothing. 9 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
P.O. Box 13 12 64 · 42039 Wuppertal, Germany Tel.: +49/202/8 90 91 91 · Fax: +49/202/8 90 91 11 info@rolltex.de · www.rolltex.de RollerCoverings a great variety of surfaces in Rubber, PVC and other Materials ITMA Mailand 2023 Hall 10 / C 103 Launch of certification for organic cotton Trials for traceability solutions in India ASSOCIATION: Oeko-Tex FOCUS: Testing ASSOCIATION: Better Cotton FOCUS: Transparency Oeko-Tex is offering a comprehensive and objective testing system for organic cotton products with a fully verified chain of custody. The focus of Oeko-Tex Organic Cotton is product and consumer safety as well as traceability. Fashion and textile products with this label were made with organic cotton, grown without GMOs (genetically modified organisms) or pesticides, and were tested for other harmful substances. For verification of organic origin, Oeko-Tex’s GMO quantification method differentiates between contamination and purposeful mixing of conventional cotton. The new certification works in compliance with several global regulations including EU REACH Annex XIV and XVII, US CPSIA (lead), EU POP regulation. The Oeko-Tex Association, Zurich/Switzerland, has been testing and certifying organic cotton since the launch of Oeko-Tex Standard 100 over 30 years ago. As the use of organic cotton in fashion and textiles has increased, so have the requests to call out organic cotton in Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certificates. To ensure clear consumer communication, Oeko-Tex has created a label and sub label: “Organic Cotton” certifies articles and materials made of 100% organic cotton, whereas “Organic Cotton Blended” certified articles must be made of at least 70% organic cotton. With proof of origin, any article containing organic cotton can still be tested for harmful substances and certified with Oeko-Tex Standard 100. The certification can be communicated with the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 label, with organic cotton stated in the certificate text. Mixtures of organic and conventional cotton are forbidden in all 3 certificates. The Oeko-Tex quantitative GMO testing method is the first method able to differentiate between intentional mixing versus unavoidable contamination (e.g. from fiber flight) with conventional cotton. For the launch of Organic Cotton, Oeko-Tex has set a limit of <10% GMOs. The intention is to gather knowledge and experience through incoming data, then adapt the limit value to further develop and improve the certification. To ensure organic farming practices at the farm level, Oeko-Tex Organic Cotton requires a certification according to the IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements) family of standards. The full test program of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is carried out to ensure product safety. Additional tests for GMOs and pesticides are carried out to prove organic farming. In case of a failed qualitative GMO test, the quantitative GMO test checks if the failure was due to contamination or intentional mixing. Oeko-Tex = trademark Digital and physical traceability solutions from Retraced, TextileGenesis, Haelixa, and Tailorlux are currently being tested to determine the best way to establish greater transparency across cotton supply chains. This will build on the ongoing work of Better Cotton, Geneva/ Switzerland, to revise its Chain of Custody (CoC) model and increase traceability across complex cotton supply chains. In practice, it will help establish greater visibility of the journey cotton takes from field to fashion and provide an opportunity to test advanced solutions ahead of Better Cotton offering traceability at a limited scale this year. Both digital and physical traceability solutions are being deployed in discrete cotton supply chains to assess their performance, with the results set to inform the scaled direction of Better Cotton’s traceability programme. Digital traceability is being provided by the platforms, Retraced GmbH, Düsseldorf/ Germany, and TextileGenesis, Hong Kong/China. Better Cotton is also trialling 2 additive tracers, Haelixa Ltd., Kemptthal/ Switzerland, and Tailorlux GmbH, Münster/Germany, before determining the potential of each solution. Conducted in collaboration with companies including C&A, Marks & Spencer, Target, andWalmart, the project will see each technology track cotton as it moves throughout the supplier networks of participating brands and retailers. There are over 1 million Better Cotton farmers in India, and it is one of the largest producers of Better Cotton globally. However, domestic supply chains are amongst the most complex in the world and are far more fragmented than in other regions. Better Cotton’s new traceability systemwill need to align and eventually go beyond the capabilities of existing traceability solutions to provide full end-to-end visibility. Better Cotton has also revised its Principles & Criteria (P&C) to ensure it remains an effective tool to drive continuous improvement and deliver sustainability impact at field-level. The P&C define the organisation’s approach to more sustainable cotton production and establish the requirements farmers must comply with to attain a licence and sell their cotton as ‘Better Cotton’. 10 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
EVENT: Techtextil/Texprocess 2024 FOCUS: Innovation The planning for the Techtextil and Texprocess trade fairs from April 23-26, 2024, in Frankfurt/Germany is off to a promising start. Exhibitors from over 40 countries have already registered to take part. This also includes exhibitors who decided not to participate in 2022. In 2024, for example, Brazil will be represented again. The coming trade fair editions will revolve around the theme of sustainability and present future-oriented solutions for the textile industry. Start-ups are given a high-visibility platform. The Techtextil and the Texprocess reflect the innovative power of technical textiles, textile manufacturing and processing technologies. This is demonstrated by a broad spectrum of exhibitor presentations and a comprehensive complementary program, including the Innovation Awards of both events. All product segments, from fibers and yarns to nonwovens and coated textiles, including textile manufacturing technology, will be presented at the Techtextil. Numerous organizers of joint stands have declared their participation. From Germany, for example, the IVGT - Industrieverband Veredlung - Garne - Gewebe - Technische Textilien e.V. (Industrial Association for Finishing - Yarns - Fabrics – Technical Textiles), VDMA Services GmbH with the VDMA Textile Machinery, the Saxon joint stand organized by the Verband der NordOstdeutschen Textil- und Bekleidungsindustrie (Association of the North-East German Textile and Clothing Industry) or Bayern Innovativ with a joint presentation. Internationally, country presentations from China, France, Italy, Japan, Spain, the Czech Republic, Turkey and Switzerland are already announced. Start-ups Young, innovative companies receive special attention at the Techtextil and the Texprocess. They can be targeted in a separate area and have the opportunity to present their products to international decision-makers. At the trade fairs, they can find new business partners and customers. They also benefit from international media interest and can access new target groups. Denim processing of the future Visitors to both events will find special shows tailored to their interests. For example, a separate area at the Texprocess is devoted to denim production and processing. Here, visitors can experience innovative approaches for the growth market of denim at first hand. Innovations and sustainable solutions for the future
The global business situation in the textile industry has been negative since June 2022 and continues to decline. Companies around the world and across all segments face a scenario with high production costs and relatively low demand. At the same time, companies’ expectation for the business climate in 6 months-time have been improving since November 2021. It is unclear if this growing optimism about the mid-term future is due to a believe that the situation cannot get much worse or anticipation for a well-founded economic normalization. These are the main results of the 19th Global Textile Industry Survey A memorandum of understanding (MOU) has been signed allowing Sri Lanka to adopt AATCC test methods and procedures as national standards. Staff of the Sri Lanka Standards Institution (SLSI), Colombo/Sri Lanka, also became members of AATCC and relevant committees. According to the MOU, the new partnership will allow both groups to “enhance their support for the needs of the people of Sri Lanka, continue growth of the economy of Sri Lanka, and aid in the development of Sri Lanka National Standards.” This is the second such MOU for the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) Research Triangle Park, NC/USA. In 2020, L'Instituto Colombiano de Normas Técnicas y Certificación (ICONTEC), Bogotá/Colombia, agreed to mutually encourage “inclusiveness and cooperation, and wish to avoid technical duplication wherever and whenever possible.” This agreement enabled adoption of AATCC documents as Colombia National Standards. Often referenced as a source of American standards, the AATCC continues to incorporate and serve the global textile community. Members participate from more than 50 countries. New tools enable more convenient involvement from anywhere through virtual meetings and online forums. In March 2023, HKRITA signed separate Memoranda of Understanding (MOUs) with 2 major research and industry partners: Shinshu University and Seiko Epson. The agreements will promote creative research partnerships to develop technologies that are both useful to industry and beneficial to society. HKRITA's relationship with Shinshu University Nagano/Japan, dates back to 2013 with the signing of the first MOU with the University's Fiber Innovation Incubator (FII). A second MOU was signed in 2018 to continue successful collaboration in a series of research projects in the areas of evaluation systems, material science and recycling technologies. The MOU between Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA), Hong Kong/China, and Seiko Epson Corp., Tokyo/Japan, will promote R&D collaboration in material recycling. Research projects will be carried out by experts from both parties who have strong industry and research backgrounds in the areas of textiles, mechanics, electronics and digital technologies. Epson aims to become carbon negative and eliminate the use of non-renewable underground resources by 2050. As part of this, the company hopes that the collaboration with HKRITA and its textile recycling technology will help to create an industrial structure with low environmental impact. Expectations booming in textile industry Adoption of AATCC test standards by Sri Lanka MOUs with Shinshu University and Seiko Epson ASSOCIATION: ITMF FOCUS: Business ASSOCIATION: AATCC FOCUS: Cooperation INSTITUTE: HKRITA FOCUS: Cooperation (GTIS) by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), Zurich/Switzerland. Order intake has also steadily decreased since November 2022, mostly in line with the trend in the business situation. The rate of decline has nevertheless slowed down in March 2023, likely due to weak demand. “Weakening demand” has indeed been rated the major concern in the global textile value chain since July 2022 and its importance has even grown in the last survey. Inflation remains another major concern worldwide. The expected improvements for the 2nd half of 2023 are supported by a relatively low level of order cancellations and stabilizing inventory levels. 53% of respondents to the 19th GTIS recorded no order cancelations during the last 4 months (down from 58% last January). The phenomenon is stronger in South America and touches spinners and weavers relatively more. 58% of respondents also rated inventory levels as average. The number of companies reporting high inventory levels is greater in Asia and Europe. Among segments, it is the highest for home textile producers. 12 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
COMPANY: Asahi Kasei FOCUS: Innovation COMPANY: Renewcell/TextileGenesis FOCUS: Cooperation A “Care for Earth” investment framework has been established by Asahi Kasei as a new initiative for carbon neutrality by investing $100 million worldwide in earlystage start-ups that aim to solve issues in environmental fields such as hydrogen, energy storage, carbon management, and bio-based chemicals over the 5-year period up to 2027. Since 2008, Asahi Kasei Corp., Tokyo/Japan, has advanced corporate venture capital (CVC) activity in order to create new businesses by investing in start-ups and performing joint developments with them. Based in Silicon Valley since 2011, this activity has facilitated investments in over 50 start-ups in the USA, Europe, China, and Japan, resulting in numerous collaborations and 2 acquisitions which have sparked innovation. The company is helping to solve issues in society with all of its businesses providing value from the perspectives of “Care for People” to realize active life in the new normal and “Care for Earth” to realize a carbon neutral and sustainable world. Until now, Asahi Kasei has focused its CVC investments in the area of “Care for People” such as healthcare, IoT, and homes, which have relatively short timeframes to commercialization. The area of “Care for Earth,” in contrast, tends to have longer-term commercial prospects, while fields such as hydrogen and energy storage lack established value chains, making it difficult to invest under the conventional framework. To achieve carbon neutrality in 2050, the company aims to reduce its own greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions and to contribute to reducing GHG emissions throughout society, while creating new businesses through the newly established “Care for Earth” investment framework whose investment horizons and investment decision criteria are different than before. The new investment framework is also expected to help Asahi Kasei advance the transformation of its Material sector portfolio through participation in business ecosystems for carbon neutrality. After participating in industry trials, Renewcell and TextileGenesis have the intention to establish an agreement for full pulp-to-retail traceability for Renewcell’s Circulose recycled raw material across the entire textile supply chain. Renewcell AB, Stockholm/Sweden, uses a patented process to breakdown and recycle cotton and other cellulosic textile waste, such as worn-out jeans and production scraps, to create Circulose, a biodegradable raw material that can be used to create viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate and other man-made cellulosic fibers. With TextileGenesis, Renewcell will be able to share real-time digital traceability with its customers and supply chain partners. The platform uses digital tokens to ensure a secure chain of custody for all supply chain processes from rawmaterials to retail. TextileGenesis, Hong Kong/China, is already partnering with fiber producers including Lenzing AG, Eastman, and Birla Cellulose as the leader in textile traceability. The new Renewcell facility in Sundsvall/Sweden, is helping move the company towards its goal of recycling the equivalent of more than 1.4 billion T-shirts per year. TextileGenesis, Fibercoins = trademark // Circulose = registered trademark Investment in start-ups focused on carbon neutrality Partnership for Circulose pulp-to-retail transparency 13 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
The multipurpose interlining fabric that adds stability, shape and warmth to garments, Vlieseline, is celebrating its 75th jubilee. The iso-elastic nonwovens interlining from Freudenberg Performance Materials Holding SE & Co. KG, Weinheim/ Germany – developed by Dr. Carl-Ludwig Nottebohm – is not only used in the textile industry but also from sewing enthusiasts and fashion houses. The material was initially developed as a substitute fabric and produced for the first time in 1948. Offering an optimal fit, stylish effects and a cozy warmth, Vlieseline products lend a certain something to custom accessories, garments and creative handicrafts. In terms of sustainability, the fabric is up-to-date with products made from natural fibers such as soy, bamboo and cotton, nonwovens made from up to 100% recycled materials such as PET bottles and environmentally friendly production processes. Vlieseline = registered trademark 75 years of Vlieseline COMPANY: Freudenberg FOCUS: Anniversary Restructuring plan for Ludwigshafen plant facility COMPANY: DyStar FOCUS: Business Specialty chemical company DyStar plans to restructure its facility in Ludwigshafen/Germany. The strategic decision is made by the company in response to changing business conditions and market shifts. The company will focus on developing key emerging markets, which have been shifting over a decade. In the wake of higher energy costs and inflation, the company is determined to further improve cost efficiency and drive sustainable productivity. The facility has been an integral part of the company’s global network. DyStar inherited this facility from its founders, who started the indigo research and manufacturing more than 125 years ago. The restructuring of this facility will be carried out in a phased manner. DyStar will diversify the production activity out of Europeandstartwith the reductionofmanpower asaconsequence.Customersare assured of undisrupted supply. DyStar will also work with local authorities and HR to support affected employees during this period. Heike van de Kerkhof, Mark Garrett Ben Selby MANAGEMENT MANAGEMENT The transition plan for the role of Chief Executive Officer (CEO) has been announced by Archroma. Heike van de Kerkhof, CEO of the company since January 2020, will step down effective April 30, 2023, to focus on other career opportunities. Mark Garrett, will assume the role of interim CEO. The Board of Directors of Archroma Management GmbH, Pratteln/Switzerland, has initiated a comprehensive search process for installing a permanent CEO and has retained a leading executive search firm to evaluate both internal and external candidates. In her role as CEO, van de Kerkhof advanced the company’s sustainability, innovation, and customer-focused business model, while also successfully closing the transformational acquisition of Huntsman’s Textile Effects business. InterimCEOGarrett is a seasoned executive who brings substantial industry experience which encompasses directly relevant knowledge of Archroma’s product portfolio and end markets. He has served in the capacity of Chairman and CEO and in senior executive leadership roles with companies such as OMV/Borealis, Marquard & Bahls, Ciba Specialty Chemicals and DuPont. The Chief Executive Officer (CEO) of Spinnova, Kim Poulsen, has stepped down, and the company's Board of Directors has appointed Chief Financial Officer (CFO) Ben Selby as interim CEO. Poulsen has left the company's operational management effective immediately. The search for a new permanent CEO has also commenced. Selby started as interim CEO on April 21, 2023. He will simultaneously continue in his position as CFO. He has been CFO and a member of the management team of Spinnova’s Plc, Jyväskylä/ Finland, since March 2021. 14 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
Visit us at ITMA Milano 2023 Hall: 11 Booth: D 105 A digital tool enabling partners to choose sustainable dyestuff based on competitive performance and environmental metrics for commercial use has been launched by Fashion for Good. The Dyestuff Library, which will accelerate the shift from harmful chemistry to more sustainable options by enabling visibility and access to innovations, is supported by Fashion for Good’s corporate partners, along with other supporting stakeholders. Textile dyes were derived from nature before synthetic dyes, discovered by WH Perkin in 1856, revolutionized the textile industry. Annually, over 10,000 tons of synthetic dyes are used by textile industries, but the toxic effects and the ecological impact are extremely harmful to humans and the environment. Over the years, a significant amount of effort has gone into phasing out harmful chemistry and there are consistent efforts to develop non-hazardous chemistry. Today, many alternative dyes from natural sources such as plants, micro-organisms, Sustainable dyestuff library ASSOCIATION: Fashion for Good FOCUS: Sustainability > sustainable options. > safe for commercial use. algae and recycled materials are available, however the lack of clarity on their performance and scale makes it difficult for the industry to switch to these sustainable options. Over the course of a year, 15 selected dyestuff innovations will participate in lab and pilot trials. Innovators will go through extensive compliance and toxicity testing to ensure they are safe for commercial use. Testing and validating the performance of these innovative dyes and pigments on various textile substrates will be supported by supply chain partners. Furthermore, participating Fashion for Good partners, textile experts and ZDHC will support this project with their expertise and encourage next steps for industry implementation. After the completion of the project, Fashion for Good, Amsterdam/Netherlands, will continue developing the library with additional innovators, materials, fabric constructions, testing methods and innovative coloration machineries to enable innovation implementation in the fashion industry. Sustainable options 15 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
The Celli family holding continues its strategic development project and is further strengthened by integrating new skills for automation solutions and industrial integration. Continuing its strategic development project and further strengthening by integrating new skills for automation solutions and industrial integration, ITA Holding has acquired Sadas Srl, Lucca/Italy, a specialist in system integration and automation solutions and electrification for industrial plants, into the group of companies. Italia Technology Alliance (ITA Holding), of which the best-known brand is A.Celli SpA, Lucca/Italy, is the holding company of the Celli family that includes a series of manufacturers of industrial machinery and technological solutions. A partnership to set up the very first industrial-scale automatic textile sorting line in France combining automated sorting and recycling technology has been formed by international technology group Andritz with Pellenc ST and Nouvelles Fibres Textiles. The partners have knowledge from decades of experience: Pellenc ST, Pertuis Cedex/France, in sorting technologies, Andritz AG, Graz/Austria, and Nouvelles Fibres Textiles (newly founded by Les Tissages de Charlieu, SARL, Charlieu/ France, and Synergies TLC, Albertville/ France) in textile machinery and processes, post-consumer textile value chains from sorting to manufacturing. The new textile sorting line being built is the first to combine Pellenc’s automated sorting technologies with Andritz’s recycling technologies. It will process postconsumer textile wastes to produce Acquisition of Sadas Partnership for textile recycling COMPANY: ITA Holding /A.Celli FOCUS: Cooperation COMPANY: Andritz FOCUS: Recycling Integrating new skills for automation With the inauguration of its new manufacturing facility in Tolland, CT/USA, on April 4, 2023, Lectra is accelerating its strategy to bring its manufacturing processes in-house. Significant investment in inventory and assembly capabilities reduces lead times by over 60%, and ensures customers receive a high quality of service. The implementation of operations in this facility marks an important milestone in the 2023-2025 strategic roadmap of Lectra SA, Paris/France, With this additional factory, the company's complete line of single ply cutters, including the Z1, Taurus, and DCS series, will be manufactured in-house, enabling customer demands to be met more quickly. A larger investment in inventory coupled with a move towards leaner and more modern production systems will also enable Lectra to provide a higher quality service for customers. The facility will enable Lectra to reduce the environmental footprint of its activities and contribute to the design of eco-responsible offers, as part of the company’s global commitment to sustainability. New manufacturing facility in Tolland COMPANY: Lectra FOCUS: Investment Sadas was founded in 2005 with the aim of making skills and know-how available to companies in the paper and tissue sector. The company has experienced a growth that has allowed it to expand its reference market, reaching other product sectors such as food and beverage, energy, chemical, nautical and manufacturing in general. Today Sadas is mainly specialized in software development, automation, predictive maintenance and system integration services, certified by the major market players in the field of automation and industrial digitalization. The sole director of Sadas Srl will be Luca Brugioni, assisted by the new general manager Flavio Batti. Giuseppe Simonini will be responsible for the commercial department with the usual technical support from Diego Bonvicini, Marco Porta and Luigi Franceschi. Next page 16 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
WUMAG TEXROLL GmbH & Co. KG A subsidiary of Carl KRAFFT & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG | Schoellerstraße 164 | 52351 Düren | Germany +49 24 21 96 54 0 | texroll@wumag-texroll.com | www.wumag-texroll.com THE EDGE FOR YOUR PRODUCT Smart manufacturing with customized machines and rollers Where textile and non-textile webs are created Lower order intake COMPANY: Oerlikon FOCUS: Business New textile sorting line recycled fiber engineered for the spinning, nonwoven and composite industries. Starting operations in mid-2023, it will serve as a production line for Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, as an R&D line for the 3 partners, and as a test and demonstration center for their customers. Nouvelles Fibres Textiles aims to become a reference in both industrial grade material production and industrial scale postconsumer textile sorting, thanks to innovative technologies with hard point removal providing pure fibers, selective colors, and differentiated fiber types. Nouvelles Fibres Textiles’ partners also work closely together in R&D at the Andritz Laroche and Pellenc technical centers to keep pushing technical boundaries. In the first quarter 2023, the Oerlikon Group was able to increase sales by 5.4% to CHF 735 million. This was due to the increase in sales of 11% in the Surface Solutions division. In the Polymer Processing Solutions Division of Oerlikon Management AG, Pfäffikon/ Switzerland, sales decreased slightly by 1% to CHF 366 million. At constant exchange rates, sales increased by 4.6%, supported by deliveries from the large order backlog of previous years. Order intake now declined again after the record orders in 2022 and amounted in Q1/2023 at €298 million (down 28.0%, down 24.1% at constant exchange rates). Operational EBITDA decreased by 5.2% to CHF 55 million, or 15.1% of sales, compared to CHF 58 million, or 15.7% of sales, in Q1 2022. Margin was impacted by mix effects and higher input costs. EBIT amounted to CHF 41 million or 11.3% of sales (Q1/2022: CHF 44 million, 12.0%). 17 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
A slowdown in new system orders was reflected by a wait-and-see attitude on the part of the Lectra’s customers around the world due to slower global growth, persistent inflation, and rising interest rates, the first quarter (Q1) of 2023. Orders for perpetual software licenses, equipment and accompanying software, and non-recurring services went down 32% to €35.7 million. Orders for new software subscriptions continued to rise. Their annual value came to €2.7 million, increasing by 13% compared to 2022 (+14% at actual exchange rates). Despite the low order intake, Q1 sales in 2023 amounted to €123.7 million, stable compared to the same period of 2022, due to strong growth in revenues from recurring contracts, and the acceleration of synergies from the Gerber acquisition. Stable revenues and decline in EBITDA in Q1/2023 COMPANY:Lectra FOCUS: Business Q1 sales in 2023 amounted to EBITDA before non-recurring items totaled €19.7 million, down 12%, and the EBITDA margin before non-recurring items was 16.0%, down 2.1 percentage points. Net income amounted to €7.3 million, down 21% at actual exchange rates. In its 2022 Financial Report, Lectra SA, Paris/France, specified that 2023 remained unpredictable given the degraded macroeconomic and geopolitical environment, which lead to numerous uncertainties that could continue to weigh upon the investment decisions of its customers. The business activity and results in Q1 2023 confirmed this situation. Because the company’s customers operate in a highly competitive environment that demands they continue to improve performance, their investments will pick up as soon as the macroeconomic situation improves. €123.7 million Prof. Paul Kiekens MANAGEMENT In recognition of his extraordinary achievements in the fields of textile mechanical engineering, textile technology as well as textile chemistry and surface modification of textile semi-finished products, Prof. Paul Kiekens was awarded the title of Doctor honoris causa (Dr.-Ing. h.c.) on April 5, 2023. He has implemented a unique platform by founding a European research network for universities specialized in textile teaching and research. Kiekens was a university professor at Ghent University, Belgium, for almost 35 years and thus responsible for textile-oriented education and research. Intensive interaction with European business and science was always particularly important to him. Immediately after the fall of the Berlin Wall, he opened the way for international cooperation in teaching and research in the field of textile mechanical engineering, textile technologies, and textile chemistry for the only Eastern European university research institution with a textile orientation, the ITM (formerly ITB) at the Faculty of Mechanical Engineering of TU Dresden, and provided great and uncomplicated support. As early as the 1990s, Kiekens had the vision of creating a European network for universities in textile teaching and research. In 1994, the Association of Universities for Textiles (AUTEX) was founded with the aimof establishing teaching and research in the field of textile technology at an internationally respected level through joint concepts. Due to the prevailing cooperation at that time between Kiekens and Prof. Peter Offermann, the TU Dresden, represented by the Institute of Textile Machinery and High Performance Material Technology (ITM), has been a full member and decisively integrated in the network since its foundation on July 1, 1994. Thus Kiekens has significantly promoted the international cooperation of the TU Dresden, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering with international university textile research institutions. 18 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
ITMA 2023: Forums on nonwovens and textile dyes & auxiliaries Two industry forums on nonwovens, and textiles dyes and auxiliaries will be reprised at the ITMA 2023 which will be held in Milan/Italy from June 8-14, 2023. ITMA Nonwovens Forum The Nonwovens Forum will feature a keynote presentation by Dr. Bryan Haynes, Technical Director for Global Nonwovens at Kimberly-Clark Corporation (UK). He will speak on the topic “Ready now nonwoven solutions for the global plastics crisis”. In his presentation, he will provide insights into solutions that are commercially available, highlighting Kimberly-Clark’s sustainability journey. Following the keynote, there will be 2 sessions with presentations by ITMA 2023 exhibitors. The forum will end with a panel discussion on the theme “Leveraging sustainable innovation and digital technology in the nonwoven industry”. ITMA Textile Colourants and Chemicals Forum Held since 2011, the Textile Colourants and Chemicals Forum will feature a joint keynote presentation by Prasad Pant, Director, South Asia, ZDHC Foundation and Sophie Mather, Co-Founder and Executive Director, The Microfibre Consortium (TMC). Microfibers have been flagged as an environmental hazard and the presenters will share the key findings from the joint project by the 2 organizations on fiber fragmentation in wastewater. Through the presentation, they would like to propel various stakeholders to collaborate towards a sustainable manufacturing value chain. A highlight at the forum is the panel discussion, Unlocking the Decarbonization Opportunity. The session will map the opportunities for impact reduction and dive into the D(R)YE Factory of the Future Project. The project brings together key players in the industry and several innovators in pretreatment and coloration to validate their technologies. The Textile Colourants and Chemicals Forum will be held on June 9, 2023, while the Nonwovens Forum will be held on June 10, 2023. Besides ITMA forums, participants can also attend other activities, such as the Innovator Xchange (June 9-13, 2023) and the Innovation Video Showcase which will feature selected videos from exhibitors. 19 NEWS MELLIAND INTERNATIONAL 3 | 2023
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